Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I've been struggling to get my carbs syched and I think I have a pluged pilot circuit in one of my carbs. But, in the hours I've spent pondering and researching triple-specific techniques I have come up with a serious question: How is it that the synching method in the manual works? if you are unfamiliar with it:

1. Back all idle stop screws out so the slides are in their full down positions
2. remove all slack from throttle cables at the carbs by adjusting the cable fitting on top of each carb
3. Start engine and adjust idle
4. Each cylinder must be adjusted so that all cylinders are running at optimum. Using the idle stop screws, adjust each carb for the lowest rpm possible

So, theoretically, each carb's slide will be at a different height due to the adjustment of the idle stop screws. Wouldn't you need to then take up the throttle cable slack at each carb by adjusting the cable fitting on top of the carb again?

it seems to me that the cable adjusting fitting on top of the carb and the throttle stop screw essentially do the same thing. So, can't you just remove the idle stop screws from the equation by backing them out until they no longer touch the slides and leaving them like that? You can then use the thottle adjustment knob on the bottom of the throttle housing (on the handle bar) or the cable adjusting nut located near the throttle housing to adjust idle.

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ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

'The Book' calls for some clearence for the cable adjustment, no clearence will lead to other problems - runaway idle, slow return,etc. You have more presicion, and feel,with the idle screws. You could probably do it your way, but there is a simpler way - by the book...! What I do is set the idle, yank the throttle half way, and level the slides with the cable adjusters. There are 2 different slide adjusters here, idle and thottle position. ( Man, that took some thinking!!)

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

Please do it the right way, buy, and use a Uni-Syn. It's a lot easier, and far, far more accurate than any manual measuring of slides in throttle bores.

There is a carb tuning section on the resource site, read that.

I used to use a UNI-SYNC, but do it the old way now, as I found not enough difference to matter.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

+1

The trick to the unisyn is it can only be applied to the carb mouth for about a second before it drags the engine speed down. One must let the engine speed re-stabilize before checking the next cyclinder's carb.

There are actually two separate carb syncs you must do:

The first is with the throttle slides at rest on their idle stops, to attain the desired idle speed. A perfect flow sync (by taking brief unisyn measurements) here gives the quietest (non rattlingly) engine possible.

The second sync is the actual slide operation as dictated from the cables. This is what your engine is operating with during riding. A perfect flow sync here gives the smoothest (least vibration possible). Adjust this after you have completed the above idle sync.

First adjust the cable slack at the cable adjuster at each carb to give around 1-2mm (equally) with slides on their idle stops. Start the engine. Adjust the twist grip mounted cable adjuster to take all the slack out of the cable system and continue adjusting until the engine speeds up to around 3-4000 rpms (the slides are now being lifted by the cables). With the engine speed stabilized take a uni sync reading on each carb, one at a time. Adjust the cable adjuster at the carb until all readings are identical between cylinders. Lock the adjusters with their lock nuts when done.

Now back off the adjuster at the twist grip until about 2-3mm slack is in the cable here (slides are now returned on to their idle stops hence returning engine speed to desired idle) and LOCK the adjuster with the check nut. Be sure enough slack is left at both the twist grip cable adjuster (2-3mm) and the carb mounted cable adjusters (1-2mm) so that no increase in rpm occurs with turning the handle bars lock to lock.

Finally after you have adjusted the cables as above re-check/adjust your oil pump setting as it may have changed.

J

PS, I suggest you take the bike out for a run to clear any excess oil out of the crankcase and get the engine to normal operating temp first. Also be sure the bike is level (on center stand) or side stand blocked up to near level. Cables in good condition (no frayed wires or harsh bends/kinks) and properly lubricated is a must too.

Make sure after you get it jetted right to recheck the above as sometimes it changes plus practice makes perfect.

To add to LC's post....
Proper air screw adjustment must be done FIRST.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

^^^^^ For sure.

Carb sync. is essentially the final adjustment after properly servicing and setting up the carbs. Be sure your ignition timing is set properly, exhausts clear and the engine is in good condition first.

J

good info guys, thanks. I'll try some of this out tomorrow after I get done cleaning my carbs again

_________________
ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

The Uni-Syn needs to be applied to the first carb with the adjuster all the way backed out of the tool. Then, run the tool adjuster in, to get the float in the vial in the center of the vial. If the tool is set to read wrong, not enough air flow through the tool, the engine will bog down, and possibly, stall.

I just add two more vacuum fittings on the other two carbs from the one with the stock vacuum fitting, and use a 6 tube mercury manometer, same one I use on my KZ1300.