Kawi2strokes.com Forum

This is an idea if this is the "look" you are looking for.

http://www.arnoldsdesign.com/image/arno ... 20carb.JPG

http://www.arnoldsdesign.com/Gallery.html

Wether or not you can get every last bit out of your carb before using is another matter.

Genius; can't believe I forgot about this process.
What did you mean by "getting every last bit out"?

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There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

Copied from Arnold's website:

After you get your parts back, you will need to rinse them thoroughly in case there are any remaining micro beads left in them. This is extremely important! Although I do rinse them here in corrosion inhibitor solution, the final responsibility to flush out any remaining media lies with the part's owner. If you put vapor blasted aluminum in the dishwasher, be sure not to use any harsh alkaline or acid detergent, such as chlorine based, or sodium carbonate, borax, hydrochloric acid, citric acid, or any other acids or caustics. It will streak the parts and ruin the finish. I had a customer do just that a few years ago to his old Triumph bonneville engine after I had vapor blasted it and it streaked and ruined the finish. Just clean water will work. If you want to add a radiator rust inhibitor liquid to the water (not radiator cleaner), that will protect the metal further. Compressed air is good too. Remember, fresh aluminum is highly reactive. It will take a few weeks or so for the aluminum alloy to form a protective layer of oxide. In the meantime, you can coat the surface with a light oil film, such as wd-40, gun metal rust inhibitor (the stuff that smells like crayons), or Marvel Mystery Oil.

This is the "look" I'm looking for in my rebuild. I'm sending my cases, carbs, hubs, cylinders and heads soon to Arnold's.

Jim,

Tried having some Honda 750 cases anodized and they declined saying they have too much zink in them, I took that to mean only pure aluminum alloys could be anodized.

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Don

I sent a set of cases to Arnold and was amazed at the finish

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72 H2, 76 XLCH, 78 KZ1000, 99 ZRX, 04 120ci Fatboy

He may just have not wanted to risk an unattractive finish because castings can vary a lot in alloy. Zinc doesn't seem to be a problem though. From the Aluminum Anodizers Council http://www.anodizing.org/Publications/bulletin_4.html in the last paragraph:


Maybe Mikuni would be willing to provide the alloy specification they use, for someone who wants to try anodizing their carburetors.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

IMO carbs were never something that were shiny when new. Even a brand new Mikuni doesn't look polished or shiney. The best I have come up with is soaking over night in carb cleaner, rinse, then quick dip, (less than 5 seconds) in Muriatic Acid, dip in baking soda solution, thorough rinse. This is as close as I have come to a stock look. One problem, and it only happened once, was the bowls came out slightly lighter than the bodies?

I need to post photos but my glass bead blaster or soda blasting give a brighter finish without the really flat look of aggressive chemical cleaning.
I tried Never Dull as per suggestion and it helps to restore a slight bit of gloss but I still prefer blasting.
Agreed that for a full on restoration, really bright is not factory correct.

Anybody try the $18 Harbor Freight gravity feed blasting gun?
Some reviewers have had decent experience with baking soda as the media.
http://www.harborfreight.com/gravity-fe ... 93221.html

_________________
There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

Some before and after of the method I use.






And here they are mounted on the bike. It's just my taste, but pipes can pop, paint can shine, and cases polish up like chrome but carbs should look clean and mechanical. For me anyway, they should blend into the look of the motor.