Kawi2strokes.com Forum

My click type Craftsman 1/2" torque wrench (something like 20 - 150 ft/lbs) is not accurate enough for small bolts.
Also ave a 3/8" beam type.
Just bought an Armstrong 3/8" dial wrench off ebay.
The same bolt in a vise:

Armstrong = 30 ft/lbs
Husky beam = 40 ft/lbs
1/2" clicker = approx 20 ft/lbs

Reasonably hand tight with a standard 3/8" Craftsman ratchet = approx 20 Armstrong ft/lbs

Any weigh to calibrate at home?
Should I assume the Armstrong is the most accurate at these settings?
It is a 0 - 50 ft/lbs unit

_________________
There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

What was the test procedure?

You could rig up an arm that supports a weight to create a known torque. For example, a 1 foot long horizontal arm with a 20 lb weight hanging from one end, and attached to the torque wrench square drive at the other, should read 20 lb-ft.

_________________
If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

my 1 minute test was just a nut in a vice with a bolt
I was surprised that loosing takes less energy than tightening
I think the easiest way will be to check against another wrench

_________________
There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

That will work *if* you can find a wrench that's known to be calibrated.

_________________
If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Unless you just bought it new or it came back from a calibration shop it's all a crap shoot
I'm thinking about borrowing 2 quality wrenches from mechanics that don't abuse their tools and averaging the three

The clicker and the dial agree at 35 - 50ft/lbs
The Husky is all over the map from 0 on up

_________________
There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

If you know someone who works in Aviation, hand it (them) to him, they have their hand tools calibrated ALL the time...........!

_________________
"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

Jim you have me curious.
3/8 bolt/nut in a vise.

My old Craftsman 1/2 inch clicker 32lbs.
Taiwan Performance bar - 35lbs.
Several tries - all about the same as above.

Inch pounds. Whole different story.
My cheap but new TekTon clicker.
Max value 200 inch pounds hit the same mark above but at 1 foot pound = 12 inch pounds is 360 inch pounds to that's not right.

In summary I found the close readings on a 40 year old craftsman almost the same as a cheap bar one.

I'm not saying either or any of them are correct though.
bb

_________________
This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

BTW, I found that tightening a nut against the head of a bolt was not consistent as the threads are not complete all the way to the head meaning that you can force the nut against unthreaded material.
I ran a nut up against the head and then added another nut so that I was tightening a nut against a stop.

As you would guess, using a wrench at the extreme end of its' range is not the best plan (measuring 15 ft/lbs on a wrench that goes from 20 - 175).
I finally used a 1/2" bolt for all tests to eliminate the possibility of stretch.

BTW, if you tighten the crap out of a nut/bolt with a standard length ratchet, you would be lucky to get to 25 ft/lbs; I had forgotten how much the length of the handle makes. Another good reason to not use super long ratchets when tightening by "feel".

I think the dial type is more consistent and possibly more accurate however the dial is very hard to see when torquing head bolts.
The difference would be taking the tank off vs. using a clicker.
Lastly, SS bolts are really soft compared to grade 5and 8; probably softer than grade 3 (although after you file/sand of the markings, the SS bolts really polish up like chrome)

_________________
There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

If I remember correctly, click type torque wrenches loose some accuracy at the lower end of there scale. I can't remember exactly how much and where in the scale though. I do know if you want to torque a bolt to 55 ft lbs you are better off using a wrench that has a range of 10-75 than one that is 50-250. I think snap-on used to put this information in their tools books but I couldn't seem to find it on their web site.

I use a socket to connect one torque wrench to another. Using a known good clicker, they should click at the same time. If you have a beam and a clicker, you can watch the beam scale to see where the clicker clicks.