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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 1:02 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
kawi3cyl

Yes I did put the far side of the piston circlip in first, you really need to check them with a flashlight and magnifying glass and make sure they are seated in the groove....I had one that I thought was good until inspected further......I also put some grease on the base gasket and smeared it in (been doing that for decades) and then used some antiseize on the studs and a bit on the outside of the headbolts (as Moo suggested) so in the future maybe the cylinders won't get stuck as bad.

THX Phil


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 3:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:28 pm
Posts: 1572
Location: Tampa Bay Florida
I just use the anti-seize on the gaskets and studs... :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 9:24 pm
Posts: 9
Location: Springfield, Mi.
You sure you want to torque h2 head bolts to 30+ ft. lbs. ?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:56 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Triple Obsession

By the looks of your bike (is that your bike ?) on the avatar....maybe you know something I don't :?:

Thats what the book and some pretty sharp people here advise, been checking mine after 160 miles, they have turned a bit for the 4th time, but not much the last time.........to keep from blowing out a base gasket mainly

THX Phil


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:49 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 9:24 pm
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Location: Springfield, Mi.
Hi Phil

In the past at 30 ft. lbs. I've seen cylinder distortion. I would pull the top end apart and see 3 or 4 lines about 3/8" wide in each cylinder. These would be full length along the stud holes.

Anyway, I've gone to 28, 26, and now torque to 24 ft.lbs. and the abnormal wear marks are pretty much non existent.
Good gasket surfaces, a thin film of grease on the base gasket & a couple of dust coats of Copper-Coat spray on the head gaskets & never a leak.

Just something to keep in mind / look for the next time you pull her apart.

Gary


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:14 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
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Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
The book says 30ft/lb but I have heard from respected sources that 20ft/lb is more appropriate for the reason mentioned. If you think about it, why is the spec for H2 nearly double that for H1?
May be the reason for cracked H2 heads as well.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 6:31 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 9:24 pm
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Location: Springfield, Mi.
mraxl wrote:
The book says 30ft/lb but I have heard from respected sources that 20ft/lb is more appropriate for the reason mentioned. If you think about it, why is the spec for H2 nearly double that for H1?
May be the reason for cracked H2 heads as well.



Amen mraxl
I've played around with 22 ft/lb a couple of times, but settled on 24....no rhyme or reason.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 7:44 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:45 am
Posts: 319
I use a Sunnen hone with a torque plate, if you hone it at 22'lbs, then torque it to 30 and try to hone it again the hone will try to stick on the high spots. From my experience they seem to distort around .001-.002, not much but enough.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 5:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 9:24 pm
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Location: Springfield, Mi.
Hiya Chuck!

You're right .001"-.002" isn't much....but when you only have .0035"-.004" clearance to begin with it starts to matter.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 5:41 pm 
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Cool, your pistons get loose, just add torque till they quiet down......... :lol: ;) :wtf:

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