Kawi2strokes.com Forum

The HOC purple on Terry's web site looks incredible. I'd have to really save the sheckles in order to get the $1k he wants to paint it, but man, it's beautiful.

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WOW! Those colours shown are hideous! . . . whereas in real life the original colours are stunning in the sunlight! (But pretty drab in the normal light ) The Red/ Burgundy is simply fantastic and the Copper / Bronze just so unique that you maybe would think Twice about painting it that colour. Personally, I would go for the stock deep pearl Red . . . . I'm sorry I don't have a better picture of the Red
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Always remember, there will be greater and lesser people than yourself . . . you can learn from either!

Thanks for all the input ! I media blasted the old tins and found some of the original color under a tailpiece grommet that was unfaded and it looked a whole lot better than the ugly brown that the oe pieces had, (saving the oe paint was not an option) The copper in the photo looks pretty good. I have most of another body set and could do two depending on cost, might be fun to have a convertable or change out 1 piece every time out and confuse the heck out of people I will post the results once the paint is on, RB will know beforehand but I will swear him to secrecy when I order decals

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"Patina" Derived from latin upaytina, definition: Too cheap to fix it

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Bad decisions make the best stories.

III

Paint it what you like, it's your bike.....doesn't matter what anybody else thinks........though it could effect sale value........My Buddy Doug Neef just got my H2C tins painted (going on an H2B, don't care and like the sleek tank) last weekend.........I took the paint charts to the local PPG store in town......they said they knew what everything was except for the last two parts (may have been the flake).......I was not OK with that seeing as all the work and cost anyways.........I contacted Dana at WFO custom paint and bought a pint $180, yes expensive........I am glad I did, it looks totally awesome........all kind's of small flake in it that you really don't see until you go out in the sun......it really lights up, then you have to make sure that decals will fit your tank (I don't have them on yet, will put them on , then more clear and color sand and buff)........If I did not have the 75 tank, I could not have painted it purple because the decals won't fit the tank.

THX Phil

I was told to do color, decals, clear, no clear under the decals. Of course I don't always do as I'm told but I haven't painted mine yet either! Any input / experience on this one?

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We don't need no stinkin' Cams!

Some say the metal flake is dulled by sanding, if you are sanding candy, you have to be very careful. That's why it is good to do a bit of clear to smooth things down, before decal-ling and clear.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Don't sand Metallics, or metal-flake. Only rub-back the clear on top, for a smooth finish, and then polish. Color, Decals, Clear!

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

The copper on the '76 KH500 is AWESOME.... the epitome of the '70's.

and I hate the color copper.


John, its nice to see you working on a triple again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Scrambler73

I got it from Dana himself, thats how he does it, here are the instructions, and no you don't want to sand flake

Painting 1975 Kawasaki H2C Candy Purple
Doug..

Images for decal placement

Per Discussion for my notes: from Dana WFOcustompaint

strip, blast, bondo, repair bodywork

Use regular grey PPG primer (if painting purple) and wet sand .........(don't need any black....this is only for 74 lime green or candy tone gold)

3 to 4 coats of Candy Purple, paint under tank, inside side covers, inside
tail as well……NOTE: test on a paint card first !

Use Medium Reducer usually 1 ½ to 1……but can be 1 to 1 for thicker
paint……..depends on temperature

Use OMNI clear if available, looks better (older product part number 270 ?,
PPG ?)....NOTE: Doug does not prefer Omni and not using it, cheaper though

Or use PPG Polyurethane clear (part 4220 or 2042…not sure ?)

Do the first coat of clear and color sand let dry for at least a few days at least 2 (before decals, up to a week)

then apply decals (put 1 drop of dishwashing liquid
in spray bottle with water), let dry two days

Apply up to 3 more coats of clear

color sand, buff, wax………Done


Below is for Decals Installation: Tips to help you apply your graphics and is on Reproduction Decals

1) Roughly cut out the stripes/decals from the sheet (if not already).

2) Clean the surface that the decal will be applied to. The surface must be free of cleaners, solutions or solvents. If the surface has been freshly painted, allow at least a week for proper curing time. Paint that has not cured properly will attack the vinyl adhesive.

3) The clean part is carefully marked up with low tack masking tape or similar as a guide to correctly position the stripe.

4) Lightly mist with a mixture of water and a drop of dishwashing liquid, covering the whole area. Too much dishwashing liquid in the water will affect adhesion. This mist will enable the decal to be gently lifted off if the initial positioning is not accurate.

5) If the decal is between a backing paper and a transparent application tape. Peel off the backing paper making sure the whole graphic sticks to the application tape.

6) The “exposed” part of the stripe should be carefully aligned to the guides on tank/panel and gently placed in position. If the positioning is not right at this point the stripe/decal can be carefully pulled off the piece. If too much pressure has been has been used the vinyl can easily be stretched. When satisfied with its positioning the stripe can be smoothed down with a plastic squeegee or a piece of stiff card, expelling the water.

7) Peel back the application tape carefully, should the graphic start to lift push it back down then continue peeling back the tape. While it is still wet, push out any air pockets while being careful not to move the decal out of position. Always work any water or air pockets to the outside edges of the decals to avoid trapping them.

8) Decals should be allowed 24 hours to dry. If you have pushed out all air during the previous steps, the decal should not have air bubbles. Should any appear after drying, use a sewing needle to extract air with a very small hole. Small bubbles will disappear over time with exposure to sun.

9) Allow at least 2 days before applying a clear coat over your new graphics.

10) The decals should be carefully spirit wiped and allowed to dry, twice, before applying clearcoat to remove any traces silicone from the surface.

11) Applying a clearcoat is best left to an experienced painter. The decals must not stay wet for long. The first coat of clear must be what is sometimes called a “dry coat”. This is a light coat to seal them, which is allowed to dry before the final coat(s) are applied. If they are sprayed heavily with clear without doing this, the solvents in the clearcoat may attack the decals causing them to wrinkle or lift.

THX Phil