Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I think your onto something!! I did not align the rotor/gear when I put the RH side cover on the engine this past time during the rebuild. Good call. Will check to see if that was it.

UPDATE:
That was it. We are running again

You da man!

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Greg

Finally....a nice day outside!!
Drove to the local DMV first thing this morning...they open at 8am, I got there at 8:10, and there was 20 deep in line , typical.
When I handed the lady the title I got from the PO, she said...ohhh my.
I say....Its from Oklahoma and from 1974, and its fragile....looks like a dead sea scroll, i know but, hey its signed and has all the right info I think... so lets get this done.
Long story short, I got the title transfered..woohoo.
She got the Texas plate book out to check my vintage plate, and we got it registered (1971 )
and got my Hagerty insurance- a whopping $146 a year.
I have to say....Texas sure does rip you off when registering a vehicle. I calculated $46 roughly for taxes on my initial $750 purchase...but with all the other crap they don't tell you about, it came out to $156...crazy.
Well, good to go either way.
The bikes running way to rich, 4 stroking....and spewing 2 stroke oil, so I ordered 6DP1's and P6s for the VM34's...see how that does.
I believe I need to buy a new/used shift shaft and seals....as I have gear oil leaking when on the side stand. I remember when I assembled, it looked to be a little worn on the shaft where the shaft touches the seal, so thinking that is it. I'm pretty sure I changed them, but don't remember? Have to look at it a bit more closer in a day or so?

Inspection next...

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Greg

Simply aligning the H1A's trigger rotor's prong line with the pickup is not good enough to set the timing. Although not listed in the manual be sure to verify by strobe to at least 4000 rpms the iggy timing is indeed at 25 degrees btdc.

As the carbs are at extreme angle you have to set the fuel level in the bowls to the lowest permitted (float lever highest), otherwise fuel will continually dribble out the pilot's exit just downstream of the slide.

To set your float levels invert the carb and set the float lever so it is dead center aligned with center of the small brass pin (in the aluminum casting) that keeps the needle jet from rotating. This is actually very close to the 24 mm of the 22-24mm range.

Do the above before jetting changes or you will be chasing your tail.

J

Got the timing set w/ light at 4k rpm to 25 deg btdc. Used a dial gauge. Its right on. Adjusted the pickup/airgap too. Set the floats to line up w/ small brass pin- great reference point Scott, thanks! 6DP1's and P6s installed in the 34's now. Started at 3rd/middle clip first. Seemed to be running really rich still. Dropped down to 2nd clip but was a delay on the throttle from idle to half throttle and ping up around 7k....
Followed air screw adjustment process and it was not affecting the rpm at all that I could tell nor the throttle response. I changed out the pilot jets from the 35's to 30's and it is really close! No 4 stroking or pinging and response is good. May still need some adjustment but is best it has been. Really comes alive at 6k!

The oil leak was not the shift shaft as I thought. Turned out to be the o-ring behind the front sprocket spacer. Replaced and its sealed up good.

Need to fix the clutch drag issue now. Springs or release, will see.

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Greg

You have posted this before, and I have to disagree, I have been running that carb angle for years, With the front dropped 1/2" and the rear jacked up 4", always using the stock float level of parallel with the gasket surface. Never any problem.......

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

'Moo, Have another look at where the brass needle jet location pin I refer is.

If the lever is aligned with this pin the resulting level IS at 24mm (within Mikuni's spec). I have not suggested going outside of this manufacturer's spec. The resulting lever angle is vary close to being parallel with the gasket surface, as you run.

Dave Crussell is the one who gave me the tip regarding the alignment of the lever to the needle Jet pin......

J

Often the steel plates tend to distort slightly (or might have always been distorted as a result of being stamped when made) to a shape of a cupped "Belleville washer". If you assemble the steel plates so all the sharp stamped edges point one direction you can reduce the aforementioned effect.

Ultimately a OEM KAW ball bearing clutch release would be your best bet, as it has the longest disengagement throw of the "lighter" pull releases. I run a gen 2 sytec which works well, but I still need to select neutral while rolling to a stop...

FWIW, I believe Ralf Gille is now selling an improved clone of the Sytec...

J

Greg,
If you plan on turning up some serious revs out of your H1A I suggest you mod your alternator rotor befor you destroy it (Mine has now survived a recorded 11,000 rpm rub with the stator):

http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/rotor/rotormod.htm

J

Will definitely look into that mod Scott once I get everything sorted. Thanks.

Finally got some miles in- first 40 miles on the odometer ...still dialing in the carbs though.
I have to kick the revs up to 3k or so before letting clutch out any right now...or it just bogs and will sit in this very dangerous point of continuing to run, but never climbing (sounds like when you pull the choke on a running weedwacker or blower, and hit the throttle all the way). Not sure if the problem down low is too much fuel or not enough- any ideas? I have the air-screws 1.25 turns out, which is where the RPM's were highest for each cylinder during test at 2k.
From 3.5k-6k pulls real strong at any throttle and then it just unleashes from 6.5-8k or so but think that may be my clutch slipping I have been quick to shift when it gets there.

A few updated pics w/ seat upholstery, black stripe, 34's, extra bar-end I used to correct the kickstand lean angle.

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Greg

If you are 4 stroking/blubbery just as the slides open you are rich. If it simply just goes BAHHHHH, with no acceleration, you're lean.

The "correct" peak idle rpm AS setting of 1-1/8 to 1-7/8 turns only seems to work when the slide CA/needle jet/needle/needle clip position are close to being correct. To determine whether you're lean or rich in this area trying giving it a stab of enricher when launching. However from what you have posted above I'm suspecting you may have to come down a size or two on the needle jet (go to a P5 or P4). This will allow you to raise the needle to stave off the previously reported ping at the wider throttle openings but clean up (lean) the 1/4 throttle area.

I suggest you review the carb info at the resource site and consult both the sudco and Mikuni VM tuning manuals to verify what parts need changing to correct the throttle openings you are having issues with.

Niche Cycle on ebay seems to have good prices on OEM Mikuni brass. (Shipping fees on ebay seems better than dealing with their website direct)

You might try an alternate setting of the AS and see which way it needs to be turned to improve things. This too will give you an indication on what direction the jetting corrections must be. The pilot jet/AS setting can be used to cheat a bit when the rest of the setup is not optimal.

The 6dP1 needle goes very rich just past 1/2 throttle. As such when you are not on the pipe you must be careful not open your throttle too much in the lower revs. Typically most of your normal riding will be done at 1/8 to 3/8 throttle openings. Getting too aggressive with the throttle at the lower revs with this needle fitted can easily end up in a rich bog. However the 6DP1 seems good to stave off ping at the wider throttle openings, while on the pipes

Even with moderately warm porting you should be able to launch at around 2000 rpms, once you get the skill of adding throttle while letting out the clutch. (Comes in handy when the law is around too!).

Your silencer outlets look blocked?? If you have the exhaust passing through some sort of gauze it will plug in short order and cause huge performance issues...

J