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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 8:22 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
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Location: North Central NC
Actually, that Snap-On light may be fast enough, but you should double check its specs. As John said, 4,000 rpm on a 2-stroke requires a timing light that works properly to 8,000 rpm on a 4-stroke.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 8:57 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:01 am
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Location: Brownsburg IN
Jim wrote:
Actually, that Snap-On light may be fast enough, but you should double check its specs. As John said, 4,000 rpm on a 2-stroke requires a timing light that works properly to 8,000 rpm on a 4-stroke.



Really trying to keep this simple...sorry I am making it difficult. :geek: I posted a link to Snap On site about this MT1241 Light gun specs.

Stock part number MT1241
Name Light, Timing/Advance
Advance Range 0° to 60° (±2.5° accuracy)
Operating Power Range 0 to 16VDC
Rpm Range 500 to 10,000 (advancing), 0 to 10,000 (zero advance)

Please confirm that this gun is sufficient for the 4000 2 stroke range as it appears to get to 10,000. With this range is it as simple as advance the gun to 25, shooting the marks and then adjusting the pickups?? Do I still need to measure 3.45mm??

Here is the Snap on Website Link: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/parts/pr ... up_id=8334


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 9:14 am 
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Location: North Central NC
The light appears to be the type that is fast enough. You can find TDC accurately and use a degree wheel and pointer to set timing, or use a dial indicator to set the metal pointers. Then the light will let you adjust the pickups to set the timing. I'm not familiar with lights that have advance settings, but I think that feature is to set/check vacuum advance, not set the timing.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 10:00 am 
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
4000 on your triple would be the same as 8000 on a 4 stroke, so you are good to go. And it's much easier to find 3.45 BTDC than to try and find TDC.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 10:36 am 
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Location: Brownsburg IN
Ja-Moo wrote:
4000 on your triple would be the same as 8000 on a 4 stroke, so you are good to go. And it's much easier to find 3.45 BTDC than to try and find TDC.


Making sure I understand this process before missing something.
1. Take the pointer measurement part of my dial caliper and insert into the pluig hole and determine 3.45mm BTDC.
2. I align the trailing edge of my pointer on the rotor with the molded mark/line on pickup.
3. Check timing with the Snap On gun at 0 degree setting.
4. Align the marks again, if necessary, with the line on the rotor end and the pointer on the CDI to fine tune.
5. Repeat for each CYL
Am I missing anything ??

OR
being that my timing light is adjustable for 25 degree advanced, why would I need to set the cyl at 3.45mm and do the initial lignup? Woudn't the gun compensate for the setting and when flashing clearly showing where the marks "should" line up. I make a note of the difference between the line on rotor and the pointer on the CDI (timing marks) and turn off bike, adjust the pickups then re-check with the gun? Why would I need to set to 3.45mm if the gun is adjustable? What is the point of the adjustable gun then?? Thanks.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 10:50 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
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Location: North Central NC
As I said above, I believe the advance feature of the light is to measure vacuum advance, centrifugal advance, and electronic advance, not the actual spark BTDC setting. The light cannot know where TDC is on its own, so it can't tell you where 25 degrees BTDC is.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 11:21 am 
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Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
I am going to be blunt and honest about setting timing.
Forget about a cheap & easy way to determine BTDC degrees... get a dial gauge.
The dial gauge is used to determine piston position and to set the pointer. It is the most accurate way to set timing. The H Shop manual, section 7, page 137, tells you how to do it.
http://www.3cyl.com/mraxl/manuals/hseries/hmanual.htm

23 deg = .116" BTDC
24 deg = .126" BTDC
25 deg = .136" BTDC

Forget about static alignment. Go directly to strobe light alignment. Set the light to 0 degrees.
One cyl being timed sets all three on the late H1.

If you are going to work on a Triple you need the proper tools to do it. You have no idea where that pointer is set to without using a dial gauge to set it. There are no shortcuts, there is only a right way & wrong way. If you choose a method other than what is described be prepared to suffer the consequences.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 12:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:01 am
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Location: Brownsburg IN
Thanks for being blunt and honest...I appreciate that. Just to understand, I am sure this is printed in the piles of manuals too, the stock timing for H1D 1973 is 23 degrees BTDC. I am only advancing a total of 2 more degrees to 25 BTDC. Reading MRAXLs last link that is what it appears to be. Is this correct?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 1:35 pm 
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Yes, stock timing for H1D is 23 deg BTDC.
http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/tuneup.html

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 1:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:01 am
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Location: Brownsburg IN
Okay...after the whole morning of scratching my head I had the " ah ha" moment with MRAXLs link. I was not taking into account the 23 degrees BTDC as stock/standard. Not sure what I was thinking as that is why I was set on tuning the light to 25 advanced as if mine was 0 stock. I know, makes no sense to me now either. I am using the dial gauge to set up the cylinders to 25 and then move everything off that setting. Thanks to everyone for staying patient with me until the lightbulb went off. My H1 thanks you too!
Keith


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