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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:43 pm 
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Location: Indianapolis, In
My needles are the correct stock needles that are in very good condition. Your description of the choke problem is interesting. I can check that out.

I also have to admit that when I adjust the pilot screws I get very little rpm change. It is very hard to tell where max rpm is since it only goes up about 50 rpm. I do this one cylinder at a time by raising the idle with the cylinder being adjusted above 2000 rpm. So I am not convinced that the pilot circuit is functioning correctly.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 7:02 pm 
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You should see more than 50rpm change. Try setting idle to 1600.
Adjustment must be done about 1/8 turn at a time then wait as the rpm response is lags adjustment.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 8:54 pm 
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Location: Indianapolis, In
mraxl wrote:
You should see more than 50rpm change. Try setting idle to 1600.
Adjustment must be done about 1/8 turn at a time then wait as the rpm response is lags adjustment.


I was following this from the Carb Manual

Adjust air screws (one carb at a time) for highest idle RPM with a warm engine. It will require that idle screw is turned to increase RPM for the cylinder to be adjusted. Air screw adjustment should be made at >2000 rpm.

My normal idle is set at 1500 and I use the idle stop screw to move the rpm up on one cylinder at a time to do the pilot screw adjustment at >2000 rpm. Did I goof?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 9:14 pm 
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Quote:
My normal idle is set at 1500 and I use the idle stop screw to move the rpm up on one cylinder at a time to do the pilot screw adjustment at >2000 rpm. Did I goof?

No, you didn't goof.... just that you should see more variation than 50 rpm. I'm thinking that maybe you might see a little more variation at a lesser rpm. A 200 rpm variation is what I would expect. Finding a peak with only a 50 rpm variation would make it very difficult to find the right setting on the airscrew and if it isn't set right that may be the reason the RH plug is different.
An idle of 1500 is high... 1100-1200 would be more normal.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 10:11 pm 
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Location: Martinsburg, WV
The best way I did it was to get the bike warm then set the idle around 1200 with the screw only one turn out. It should run a shade rich at this point. Wind the screw in on one carb to the stop, the bike should start choking up. Unwind it one turn should return it to idle speed.do this on each one so you know the air adjustment works good. No change would indicate a blockage. Get them all one turn out, then turn a quarter turn at a time all three. If it goes up, take another quarter turn. When it level off or starts idling funny, you know you've gone too far.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 1:34 pm 
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Location: Indianapolis, In
Gentlemen, thanks to all who have been patiently advising me on my S3 carbs. The bike runs very well now. Let's review what I learned to get here.

Cracked floats replaced by a used set from usernameandpassword - Thanks Richard, they worked fine.

Bike still terrible in the mid-range but not drooling gasoline all over the place.

There are two more things that I had to do to eliminate my problem. Through many tests I determined that the RH cylinder was the culprit. Just to be sure I was looking at a carb problem I switched the center and RH carbs. OK - the problem moved to the center cylinder. It loads up sloppy rich and fouls out quickly plus the issue with running ragged in the mid-range.

As I said, there were two things that I had to do to finally get this to work. The first one I am embarrassed to admit but I will for the sake of completeness. The needles were installed incorrectly. I put them in the same way that they were in the slides when I bought the bike. They were just slipped in from the top so that the retainer ring rested on top of the plate at the bottom. As I thought about how the slides work I realized that the needle could easily hang up after the slide moved down. That would cause some real confusion in the carbs. I checked the exploded diagram in the Mikuni manual and as I suspected, the needle goes in first, then the plate. This does two things - it makes the needle follow the slide up AND down & it dropped the needle position just a bit which I needed.

Some progress at this point. With carbs back in original positions, LH and Center are working pretty well with good plug color but RH is sloppy rich and fouling out the plug as before. Not bad since this is the first time I have had good consistent results on two cylinders.

The next thing I did is a bit weird but the more I thought about it, the more I believed it would fix my problem. I had nothing to lose because at this point I was shopping for replacement carb(s). On another thread, long ago, I posted the following picture and asked if I should worry about the missing plug at the bottom of a tube in one of my three carbs.
Image
See the one on the left has an open tube and the one on the right has a plug with a tiny orifice in it.
I was told that it has nothing to do with my mid-range problem and that it was part of the enrichment system. I said, Duh, you're right. It looked like the worst case is that it would deliver too much fuel when using the choke on that one cylinder. I continued my build without thinking much about it again.

After a few more failed efforts to get the bike running right, I took a few days off and just thought about it some more. I got it down to the problem being in just that one carb. The only difference that I can see is the missing plug. How can that affect the operation of the carb? I think that all is well at idle. It will idle all day long. When I start accelerating that cylinder gets all sloppy and the bike runs like crap unless I run it at full throttle all the time. It does not like partial throttle operation. I now suspect that as engine speed increases, inlet pressure drops enough to start sucking fuel through the enrichment valve. The enrichment valve is supposed to block the flow but without the orifice in the tube there is atmospheric pressure pushing fuel out of the bowl and flooding the enrichment valve. Enough fuel gets by to cause a super rich condition. With wide open throttle the condition becomes less problematic and the engine runs OK.

So I plugged the bottom of the tube with a piece of stainless rod that I silver soldered in place.
Image
There is no orifice drilled through, but I just wanted to get rid of the big hole in the tube.

I did all the normal carb adjustments and then took it for a ride. It runs great.

I will go find that other post on the question about the tube and put this information there so others might not fall in this trap.

Time to put some miles on the S3.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 8:08 pm 
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Location: Syracuse , New York USA
I picked up a parts bike with only two carbs S3 on it... Was going to keep for spares if interested shoot me a PM..

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 8:14 pm 
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JohnnyO - thanks but I got it sorted out and I am out of cash!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 8:37 pm 
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Know the feeling... If you find you may want them in future let me know .. Enjoy your posts by the way.. Glad you got it sorted, Lots of fun running ccorrectly... :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 10:31 pm 
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Then you have a bad enrichener, or it is adjusted incorrectly. There is no way for gas to get through a good one.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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