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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 3:46 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2011 7:41 pm
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Location: Indianapolis, In
Tim Steele wrote:
A brief search and I found the only ones I have are in a set of complte built up S2 carbs that came off my 1100 mile S2A motor. I went with S3 26 MM carbs on that, courtesy of John Aylor. I will look more in the AM.


Thanks for looking. I am certainly not expecting to break up a set of complete carbs for these floats.

I just cleaned, dried and glued the leaking float with Seal All. I will submerge it in gas tomorrow and leave it for 24 hours. If it passes that test, then I will use it.

I also pulled my center carb to see what condition that float was in. My visual inspection revealed one surface crack that is apparently not leaking yet. I will leave it alone for now.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 7:16 pm 
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Location: Tampa Bay Florida
Seall-All will pass that test with ease! 8-) Jim-k used it on his S2 float when he burned some pin holes in it doing the now famous "12V Welding at the Gap", August 2007. :clap:

Image

He ran the bike for 3 or 4 months after that before changing the float and there was no gas in it when removed! :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 8:44 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:14 pm
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Location: Martinsburg, WV
Sorry I havent been around for a bit. Hunting down S3 carb floats can be tough. I bought a new one for 50 couple when I found a sunk one in my carbs from some vendor........

Sorry I kinda breezed through this thread but I may have a couple if someone is searching for them. I put 3 new ones in the stock setup I keep around for the S3 and pretty sure I have a couple spares. Hit me up if ya want and maybe we can work out something. :thumbup: Now if I can just remember where I put em. :think:

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74 H2B with reeds and 34mm carbs
75 S3A Ram Air with reeds and 30mm carbs
73 S2A (wife's bike)
71 Yammi RT1B
83 HD Sportster
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06 Kaw 750 Vulcan (wife’s bike)
12 Yammi vstar 250 (wife’s bike)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:00 pm 
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Location: Indianapolis, In
usernameandpassword sold me three used floats and mailed them to my house. Thanks Richard, they are all better looking than mine. I will road test as soon as I can and post the results here.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 12:31 pm 
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Location: Indianapolis, In
Thanks for all the help. I got the floats sorted out so that the fuel level is correct and not flowing out on the ground. I road tested the bike and it almost runs fine. Idle is good and WOT above 5,000 rpm is good but it breaks up in the middle like it is starving for fuel or something.

I adjusted the pilots and they seem OK. Since trying to resolve this running issue I have done the following:

1. Checked timing and found that it needed some correction. (dial indicator method)
2. Cleaned the pilot jets per strong recommendation from forum members here. (carbs thoroughly cleaned several times but I missed the tiny pilot jet in the carb inlet. Now I know it is there.)
3. Replaced original plug wires and caps.
4. Found fuel running out of the carbs due to leaking floats. They are now working fine with replacement floats.

Bike starts with one or two kicks and idles nicely. As soon as I begin to add throttle it starts to break up. I bully it through the mid range and it clears up at around 5K rpm every time and runs good up to redline. This was on a brand new set of plugs. I change plugs frequently during this tuning period to remove them as a variable. With the bike hot I bring it to a stop and the idle is rock solid but the mid-range is still goofy. All three pipes are equally hot. Firing on all three is progress - with the old HT wires and sinking floats I would lose the RH cylinder after about 5 minutes of running, then I would begin to lose the center cylinder.

I am wondering if I have an electrical problem or a flakey coil. I will look at the plugs to see if one cylinder is different from the others. Do you have any trouble shooting suggestions for me?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 12:38 pm 
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Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
I suggest you move the needle clip up and/or down a ring and try it again.
Spark isn't going to affect just mid range.

Tune carbs, idle, mid throttle, WOT, in that sequence.

Adding a little choke at the trouble spot can help tell you if the needle needs to be richer or leaner.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 3:27 pm 
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Location: Indianapolis, In
mraxl wrote:
I suggest you move the needle clip up and/or down a ring and try it again.
Spark isn't going to affect just mid range.

Tune carbs, idle, mid throttle, WOT, in that sequence.

Adding a little choke at the trouble spot can help tell you if the needle needs to be richer or leaner.


Thanks for the suggestion. I only thought of the choke as a tool after my last post. Doh! I can't help but suspect that I have missed something obvious here . . .

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 3:32 pm 
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Location: Martinsburg, WV
You know I got to thinking after I sent you the floats. I just shoulda had you send your 3 carbs to me and sent you the three I have on my stock setup. They work perfectly. mraxl has a good point about raising the needle a clip and see what happens. That will throw a little more at it. :thumbup: Make sure you have all genuine mikuni stuff in your carbs and noone has changed them at some point and put keyster garbage in them. Aftermarkets look the same but you can tell the genuines by the mikuni stamp on the parts. Check em all including the needle jet and jet needle. If you need something give a shout. :thumbup:

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74 H2B with reeds and 34mm carbs
75 S3A Ram Air with reeds and 30mm carbs
73 S2A (wife's bike)
71 Yammi RT1B
83 HD Sportster
03 Yammi R1
06 Kaw 750 Vulcan (wife’s bike)
12 Yammi vstar 250 (wife’s bike)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 4:47 pm 
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Location: Indianapolis, In
usernameandpassword wrote:
Make sure you have all genuine mikuni stuff in your carbs and noone has changed them at some point and put keyster garbage in them. Aftermarkets look the same but you can tell the genuines by the mikuni stamp on the parts. Check em all including the needle jet and jet needle. If you need something give a shout. :thumbup:


All the jets have the Mikuni stamp on them but something just isn't right. Somebody may have drilled them or otherwise boogered them up for me. I will consider just getting new Mikuni jets.

I pulled the plugs - L and C are very lean and R is rich. I am trying to figure out why I have one odd ball. It means something and I need to figure out what. R has always been the one to foul first and generally behave poorly.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 4:57 pm 
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Location: Martinsburg, WV
I dont know whether you can get the standard jet needle or needle jet new or not. Dont think so but sudco can tell ya. If not I have some spares around. Check and make sure the choke plunger is seating. If you take the body and put the choke cable assembly in it and hit the tube on the carb with about 5PSI, that'll tell ya if its leaking by or not. Use a blow nozzle and slide the whole choke tube in.

I found one body I had tried using back when I went through my bike with similar symptoms. Ran rich all the time and had a hard time figuring out what was wrong with it. I eventually just changed the whole body and that fixed it. Im thinking it was cracked somewhere inside I couldnt see is why that one carb consistently had issues FWIW. :think: It has been permanently removed from circulation.

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74 H2B with reeds and 34mm carbs
75 S3A Ram Air with reeds and 30mm carbs
73 S2A (wife's bike)
71 Yammi RT1B
83 HD Sportster
03 Yammi R1
06 Kaw 750 Vulcan (wife’s bike)
12 Yammi vstar 250 (wife’s bike)


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