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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 8:51 am 

Joined: Sun Jun 26, 2011 9:11 am
Posts: 34
Is there a vendor that would have a front brake line for an S3 400. After several attempts to bleed the front brake it appears the internal tubing is weak and failing under pressure, break lever is soft. Or should I just replace the entire line form lever it caliper? IF so anyone have a source?
Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 9:02 am 
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Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
Kawasaki S2A, S3 & KH400
Brake Hose Upper Front
Replaces OEM 43059-006
$42 USD plus shipping
Contact us for shipping cost
parts@reproductiondecals.com

However, I'm betting the problem isn't the line.
Did you bleed the master by itself?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 2:22 pm 

Joined: Sun Jun 26, 2011 9:11 am
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What would that process be to bleed by itself? The caliper was rebuilt, the old line re-installed. At first the level would not depress and after several tries and lots of "hard squeezing" it blew thru and bled the line. However it remains soft, so my thought was the internal wall of the rubber portion is failing.
So I would like to try and bleed the caliper by its self first per your instructions. Or if you have a link I could review.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 2:39 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
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Location: North Central NC
The resource site has a paragraph on bleeding in the How-To section, but I don't think that's specifically what mraxl was suggesting. I agree that there's almost certainly still air in your system.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 3:56 pm 

Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:46 pm
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Location: Kingston, N.Y.
If the brake line is deteriorated and weak you can get spongy brakes that will not bleed out, put one hand on the rubber portion of the line and with other hand operate lever hard if the rubber line bulges its bad.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 5:12 pm 
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Quote:
So I would like to try and bleed the caliper by its self first per your instructions. Or if you have a link I could review.

It isn't the caliper, rather the master cyl, that I referred to. Sometimes it will lock with air and keep the system from bleeding. Disconnect the brake line and pump fluid thru the master.
http://www.3cyl.com/mraxl/manuals/maint ... .htm#bleed
http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/brakebleed.htm

Also, there are two vents in the bottom of the master cyl bowl. One is extremely tiny... if I remember correctly it is on the upper left. You should see bubbles from that port when you operate the lever.
If not, it could be plugged from contaminates. Once I made the mistake of bead blasting it :oops:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 10:51 am 

Joined: Sun Jun 26, 2011 9:11 am
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Big thanks printed out all the info and heading to the garage to give another shot! :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:23 am 
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I have heard stories of the rubber lines getting old and breaking down, with piece of the rubber coming loose. If nothing else, if you aren't looking for perfectly stock, get a seel braided line, better braking and safety.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 1:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 3:06 am
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Location: PARIS FRANCE
on my S2a, put the master cylinder in the bin after 39 years old even with a new kit you can't repaired it. it was ovalized inside.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 1:52 pm 
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Location: North Central NC
Don't throw away bad 9/16" master cylinders, because they can be bored to 5/8" for dual stock disks.

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