Kawi2strokes.com Forum

BarryB, next time you need a Holley, Rochester, Carter, Ford, Motoctaft, Auto-Lite carb redone, consider sending it to me, please. One of my jobs through the years was doing Pro-Stock split dual carbs for racers, and race event track tech as well, out of Holley's race shop, 5 years working there. I do all the carb work for miles around here, shops, individuals, name it, I do it, all sorts of carbs, not just Holley's. Biggest issues I find are throttle shaft bores worn out, leaking, which I teflon bush, and Q-Jets that are over torquesd on the front two hold down bolts, rendering them just murdered/internal leaks, put together wrong, plastic or nitrophyl floats instead of brass, stuff just done wrong, wrong, wrong.

My pal Mel was over today, has a Q-Jet on one of his pickups, 1975 Chevy El Camino, small block 350, and that carb has been through the course, worked on by everyone else here, still doesn't work right. I will build him one of my spare 6210 Holley spread bore carbs for this engine some time next week, direct Q-Jet replacement.

My across the way neighbor has a 1968 Dodge dump truck, had a Thermo-Quad on it, and I built him another 6210 for it, made that 361 industrial engine wake right up.

The Chevy 1 ton C30 dually I have had a 292 inline 6 in it, but, got the truck because the engine was turned into a 5 cylinder, rear bore gone, rod thrown. Truck was free, so.... I then worked on a truck for a friend, had a new conversion to V8, and I got the old engine, GMC 305E "big block" V6. Grafted the two together, now, it's running, with a nice early 1960's Holley 2bbl off a Ford 292 V8, on a home made adapter.

The carb you have in the picture is a great carb, doesn't have many adverse issues, easy to work on, simple to redo. The qun=intessential base two barrel Holley carb. If you post the Holley LIST number, NOT the Ford OEM number, I can give yu all the specs for what is inside that carb. The LIST number is where the OEM number is, on the driver side of the choke tower, in the air filter area, and will have something like (erxample) "LIST 4210", and, possibly a dash number past it, like "LIST 4210-3". The list number tells me a lot more about that carb than the OEM Ford number does. The dash number twells me if it is a first design, or with the suffix number, what changes were made in its life time.

Let me know if you are open to my helping with your car/truck carb rebuilds and issues.

Thanks Dave - I might take you up on this. Will see how good this "reman" works.

bb

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

I find most reman's lacking in many areas, just not great quality reman. And, usually, when nit is totally worn out, it still gets the reman effort, even though it really needs to become a flower pot. Mostly, itnis throttle shaft to base wear and air leaks, and, jst orifii that are just plain worn out large. I can fix the orifii, just drill and add corectly sized Allen set screws, and, the throttle shafts aren't a problem, either. Other than that stuff, shouldn't be a problem, as long as the carb hasn't been run over by a freight train, then, rebuilt by a chimpanzee.

After a year and a half without a bike with valves and cams, I am adding another bike to the stable, hopefully this Friday.

1995 GPz1100, 8K miles and buying from the original owner

I will need to go through the carbs as it has been setting for a couple years. I am looking forward to getting this home and having fun.

Me likey!

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Dave was right, the reman carb did not work.

Actually it "ran" for a day (although engine was still running a little rough at idle and the engine stalls when in drive was worse than before).

Anyway I ran some errands with it as it was and would investigate the next day.

Next day it would not even start, appeared to be flooding out big time.

So I put the original carb back on but in the process double checked a lot of things - namely looking for a vacuum issue - a major cause when an automatic transmission stalls out or won't idle in Drive but idles fine in Park or Neutral (there are other causes for this too).

I did find the gasket on the bottom of the spacer absolutely fubar (I've not checked that in years) so I cleaned it all off - no easy feat on an old somewhat high truck using a step ladder. Checked the back vacuum lines one into my gauge in the cab and the other to the transmission vacuum control valve. Having a MityVac really is great for this kind of stuff. No leaks - all is good.

I put the new card back on again - same thing - flooding out but it came with a big red tag to call Holley support before doing anything and then getting a return from the distributor. The Holly guy was good, said yeah it's hosed, call the supplier. I called the supplier and he said he would call me back with an RMA - something about Holley is supposed to do this but he said he would handle it and also get another carb to me.

I put the old carb back on yet again and the stall issue when in drive is almost gone, but when I had the old carb off I notice the air screws were out maybe 8 turns! (I loaned my truck to my son when he was living here - idiot or his friends are)... Usually I start at 2.5 turns and go from there so I did that.

I think between the screws, the gasket under the spacer and a just plain worn out carb I'm getting closer.

I'm not changing anything until I get the spark plugs (I had to order - nothing locally not even champion or autolite) - frack, but they did have new wires.

Anyway - like most mechanical things, a problem can be multiple small issues contributing to a larger overall issue and you just need to keep at it eating the elephant one bite at a time until they're all solved. Also not introducing too many "new" things or changing too many things at once is sometimes the best route too.

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

The main issue with most remanufactured, or rebuilt auto parts like distributors and carbs is, most of them are flat worn out, and are on their cycle of redo, for the umteenth time.

A pal of mine owns a rebuilding facility in Baldwin Park, Ca. He redoes almost all things that bolt on to a vehicle that can be rebuilt. He is constantly complaining that he gets "core" carbs that are fresh and clean, just been installed, didn't work, taken back off and returned as defective to the seller, then cycled back into the cores inventories. He says most are just plain flat worn out, and/or have been redone by what appears to be 'monkeys in a circus'.

That is why I do my own work, and can remanufacture most of the parts to new spec, instead of just cleaning and slapping it all back together, still fully broke.

You'd be very surprised at just what can be fully worn out on any carb that has gone through two rebuilder cycles or more. I've seen more than a few that were completely dead on arrival, numerous rebuilds ago.

on toy trains auction last saturday
this VB CIP pegase HO gauge
http://www.lestrainsdeguillaume.com/sho ... &pixmrq=VB

and this SMCF metallic PLM passengers car
http://www.lestrainsdeguillaume.com/sho ... &pixmrq=SM

http://www.lestrainsdeguillaume.com/sho ... &pixmrq=SM

and others + books but haven't pictures

did 240 miles on bike last week end fior the auctions, nice trip on cold winter weather

Restoring A 1955 chevy cameo truck

......... ..........

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Busy doing more riding than wrenching.......