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Enthusiasts from around the world dedicated to the preservation and ritual flogging of the infamous Kawasaki 2-stroke Triples
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 8:03 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
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What? NO HOLES?? If it is done right, you can get 72 holes in one disc, with a fair reduction in weight. Do the Moo Mod as well, even NICER disc.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 8:06 pm 
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Location: Gainesville, FL
I was just thinking about that. Please put my name in the hat.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 11:35 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
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Then, there are the 12 stock street bike design discs (the H2R's used stock street bike H2 discs back then, HEAVY), Steve and I made from 7075T6 aluminum for Yvon's bikes, flame sprayed by Harry Hunt, half the weight of a stock steel disk, and then, we drileld the daylights out of 'em. Didn't have the excellent Moo Mod back then, or they'd have probably ended up weighing a pound or two per disc. We tried a lot of coatings for the aluminum discs back then, only Hunt's flame sprayed coating worked. We didn't have carbon fiber stuff then, either.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 12:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:04 pm
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Location: Just north of Toronto, Ontario
H2RTuner wrote:
What? NO HOLES?? If it is done right, you can get 72 holes in one disc, with a fair reduction in weight. Do the Moo Mod as well, even NICER disc.



Yup, I plan to put holes in mine... Even though the thinning removes much more weight then drilling holes, the holes look slick imo.

Image

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 5:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:12 pm
Posts: 1902
Location: Rockville, MD USA
Hey Andrew,
Am I crazy to think that it's getting to the point that fabbing a new plate out of modern materials might be faster than modifying the original boat anchor?

Seems like if you're running a modern caliper, using something as thick and hard as the original is more trouble than it's worth. I'm also asssuming that removing the rivets and re-attaching to the hub would not be too big a chore.

It's too bad that the guy on eBay that drills them for something like $65 doesn't also cut out the squares like John's design.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 9:08 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
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Wrong correct H2R drill pattern. Hole sizes are also too small. But, you did have to be the one that stayed in the race shop after hours, and drilled them first bunches of discs, to get the pattern and hole size correct, and have Bertea Corporation engineer Dave Hussey next door at Morris Mags working late at night, to get that first pattern, taken from a 1965 Porsche Can-Am car.

Then, you should make some sort of story up that the reason YOUR pattern works better than that original 72 hole pattern is (fill in this blank).

It really isn't in the doing, it is in the story.

And, on the Morris Mags I ran on my stolen street H2A, Morris had bearing adapters that had the hubs for the discs already on the adapters, so, I had to drill the rivits out of the stock discs, then, bolt them to the hubs with countersunk Allen screws. Later Morris mags used a bearing adapter that only held the bearing, and sandwiched between the wheel and disc hub, no disc adapter. These guys were patterend off the original 1976 KZ900LTD Morris wheels that Eliott sold to the Kaweasaki factory in droves.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 9:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Hole diameter is just calculated by the area of the 2 circles the diameter of the hole, to be equal to the area of the cylinder wall of the hole.

I just personally don't like holes in discs......

I will draw the name Monday......... :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:04 pm
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Location: Just north of Toronto, Ontario
Jim C wrote:
Hey Andrew,
Am I crazy to think that it's getting to the point that fabbing a new plate out of modern materials might be faster than modifying the original boat anchor?

Seems like if you're running a modern caliper, using something as thick and hard as the original is more trouble than it's worth. I'm also asssuming that removing the rivets and re-attaching to the hub would not be too big a chore.

It's too bad that the guy on eBay that drills them for something like $65 doesn't also cut out the squares like John's design.


It might be a good idea Jim, if you had the right material, getting one laser cut would be pretty quick and relatively cheap... My only concern would be my ignorance in picking the correct material with ideal grain structure to minimize warpage and material pickup...
Maybe the answer is a bolt on existing rotor to a custom hub???

Sorry for the highjAck Moo... I wish it were a S series rotor, I'd have my name in the hat for sure! 8-)

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 12:46 pm 
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Location: Bangor, PA
Maybe he can post a close up pic of it, but member 10sec h2 has a more modern rotor bolted to the stock carrier on his NOS h2.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1496&p=13553#p13553


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2011 6:43 pm
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Location: Tampa Bay, FL
If you haven't drawn a name yet...put me in the hat too!!

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