Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Rattling pistions Song of my life man. Whats interesting is LEFT when 80% of them are RIGHT ones.

Ride it till it blows, then you can bore, port and get new pistons!

I'm looking for my spare gaskets and such for my winter tear-down, I'll be damned if I can't find the suckers - got a whole box of them somewhere -

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

So here's another hypothesis:
Before I pulled the carb and cleaned it, right when I noticed the cylinder/exhaust pipe wasn't getting hot, I checked the plug to make sure it was firing. You know, try the simple stuff first....

Well, I laid it on top of the engine, turned on the key and kicked it over. Of course, it fired right up and ran on two... Spark plug was good, firing bright blue. Thinking back on it though, it is almost as if the spark was far too frequent for the 1500 rpm the engine was turning over. Has anyone had any problems one of the ignition boxes for a single cylinder going bad and 'sparking constantly'? Or at least too frequently?

I'm not too familiar with the pickups down on the crank but can they get out of position enough that one pickup will see the triggers for the other two cylinders?

Jason

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ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

9 times out of 10 from my experience with carbs, if a cylinder isn't firing(and you have go spark) it's usually a plugged pilot jet.

Jason, a 2-stroke at 1500 rpm fires pretty darned often, but yes, I have a defective H2 ignition rectfier that causes two plugs to fire at once, whenever either one is supposed to fire, so it's possible. You can see if this is happening by making a black mark on the ignition rotor with a marker, and connecting a timing light to one cylinder. If you see the black mark in more than one place, there is more than one spark per revolution.

No, that's not going to happen.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

My center cylinder has a larger bore than the the others; has good compression (all cylinders are 150 psi); there are no intake leaks; it runs great; timing is dead on; and has a rattle that only occurs when it's warm and under mdeium to gentle load as if it were pinging; when you stand on it the ping goes away; last plan is to try some octane booster for fun; if that doesn't fix it I'm considering the rattle to be good mojo and part of the deal. It is amazing how that metalic rattling sound can be heard clear as a bell even with Denco's.

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There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

Jason, you have made some comments that make me think you may have a carb problem although you could well have an air leak. For sure, you shouldn't be able to twist the carb in the boot.

Why not swap adapters to see if problem follows the adapter? Use case sealer on the gasket surfaces. You can try the same with carbs.

Setting up carbs with a vacuum gauge can be good... if you know and understand what you are doing when & why. Otherwise it can lead to problems unresolved because it is thought carbs are right when they aren't.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Joker:
I agree! I have picked up many a motorcycle out of a garage, owner thought it to be junk. Cleaned the carbs, oiled the chain and rode it back over to let him know that the local bike shop doesn't know they arse from a hole in the ground!

Mraxl
I'm glad to hear you say that I shouldn't be able to spin the carb, that's my feeling too. I think I"m going to try a little black tape on the end of the carb to see if it will clamp a little better. If that doesn't help, then I'll swap the boots around. As for the vacuum gages: I have used them on many bikes, usually with great results (smoother idle, better off-idle response) but I am no expert. Pretty much the way I usually see it: smaller throttle openings mean more vacuum. Is that your understanding?


Jim
I assume I can make the black marks at the same location as the timing marks for the other cylinders? It seems that if I am getting multiple spark signals I should see the black mark at, say the 6 o'clock and 10 o'clock positions....?

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ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

You should make only one mark, and it doesn't matter where you make it. If the spark plug wire you have the timing light connected to is getting the correct signal, you'll see only one mark. If the ignition rectifier is causing a problem, you will see two marks, 1/3 turn apart.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

There are three ways to adjust carbs to alter vacuum.... cable adjustment, air screw, & idle stops.
It depends on what you do when to achieve desirable results.
For example: Air screw could be set rich and you adjust the slide (one way or another) to compensate resulting in better vacuum. That will help idle but screw up mixture at other throttle settings.
I'm not saying you don't know what you're doing as I have no idea.... just that there are a lot of folks out there that misunderstand how to use a vacuum gauge to properly tune carbs and think they do.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

THanks for the info it's been a coons age since I have seen a bottle and if you get ohold of greg clauss I am sure he could duplicate a set for you c3RX9.