Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Thanks H2RTuner, some sound advice when I get inside the cover shortly.

_________________
1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.

If you want, take pics and we can go over them

I have forgotten, have you upgraded to a better clutch actuator?

_________________
Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Yes, I have the bronze/ steel type, forgot who sells it, seems to work well. Clutch does free nicely from a standstill, no 'clonk' into gear.

_________________
1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.

Good, just looking at all avenues to solve your problem. Let us know how the mod goes if you go in that direction.

_________________
Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Well I got inside the H2 today. I took a video here https://youtu.be/4Svf6dBb1Hc and it shows one of the problems, the shift arm stop pin is loose! Hoping that explains why this false neutral issue started happening, and it makes sense, it can overshift, with the stop moving. However, I still think the shift drum detent is weak. I used a dial torque wrench in the shift drum screw and rotated the drum with the torque wrench. It takes maybe 3 inch pounds to rotate the drum out of detent. I don't have anything official to compare that number to, but compared to other shift drums I have played with, the detent force seems really lame. For one, there is almost zero spring force once the arm is seated between the detent pins on the drum. In any case, I will order some 15mm OD by 3mm wide bearings and design and make a new arm, with more seated spring force.

_________________
1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.

I see your two issues. Stop pin loose, and detent spring too weak. The adjustable pin will help get the claw centered on the pins in the drum, so it centers and resets properly between shifts. New proper detent spring will also help. Looks like the claw spring is just fine.

You are on the right track.

I have a procedure I will outline to check the various adjustments, will post them tomorrow evening here.

Adjustment procedure PM'd to you, sir.

Have the new roller shift drum detent arm mostly drawn. It has a longer spring arm for more leverage and also higher seated tension. Ball bearing tip. This is drawn to scale of course, shows how lame the detent really is when there is also little spring tension, the tip does not seat between the pins very deep. I used the original 15mm tip radius for the bearing, higher seated pressure plus roller should sharpen the shifts up some. Mine stock is really mushy feeling.

_________________
1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.