Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Exactly. The only reason I'm starting to use them is the surplus thing. The 20W arrays I got were less then $2 each! They have built in regulators, but run on 24VDC, so I do have to come up with the power supplies. Here are a couple photos of one of the ones I mounted to aluminum plates to heat sink them, and put some diffusers over them to reduce the blinding brightness of the little bastards. These were made for streetlight service. I don't know the story of how they ended up surplus.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

When were building garages here we always add extra switches at the wall so you can turn off the ones you don't need that way you can load the cieling with lights.

Thanks guys, I will probably go with 3 rows of 3 four footers. I was planning on running them on a couple of switches, probably each row will have a switch.

Ahh, lighting talk, I love it (being a lighting designer and all...)

I think you're going to be fine with 9 fixtures evenly spaced. And yes, make sure you have some control of alternate or select fixtures. Nothing is worse than all the lights on one switch and you have to pop out a lamp (or something)!

Also worth noting, as evans did earlier in the thread- color temp is pretty important. It affects a number of things-
The higher the number, the closer it is to sunlight (or natural light 7200°k). The lower the degree, the closer to incandescent [which is ~3200°k].

The last industrial/shop space I spec'd had 5200° lamps- that is a good 'clear' temp that won't strain your eyes over long periods and offers 'crisp' light for function.

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running... '78 KH400, '07 KLR. In a state of repair.... '72 S2.

Thanks, I will definitely check out the heat/color options when getting bulbs. I really don't care for the orange tone that some industrial settings have.

That's usually from high pressure sodium lamps.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I just bought two T5 4footers and they are so bright that they trip my auto welding hood (that sucks) It is a big change from my old 4 foot fluorescent.

My garage is 24x32. I have 2 rows of 5 T8 dual tube 4 footers with 32 watt bulbs, I think...might be 40 watt. Each row is on it's own switch. Works great unless I have the garage door up and then the door blocks 2 of the lights, so it's a little dim under the door.

Saw a big hole in the garage door so the lights can shine through.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Excellent thread about lighting. I thought I would add my 2 cents worth.

This is only for those (like me) who have damn little space to begin with and are very cheap bastards.

I got two 4 ft 2 bulb florescent shop light fixtures on sale with rebate. I think they ended up being $14 each. I also picked up a power strip and one of those outlet adapters that screws into the existing light socket. I installed the screw in adapter into the existing light socket. Then I mounted the power strip to the ceiling next to the existing light socket. I am only working on part of one side of a two car garage so I hung the shop light fixtures about 3 feet apart and just clear of the open garage door. I plugged them both into the power strip. Now the lights all come on when I hit the existing light switch by the door. Plus, each shop light fixture has a pull chain for switching them off if I want.

Not as nice as some but much better than what I have been working with for years.

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Rotortech
Indianapolis
1974 S3