Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Look at pictures, page 11.

Jørgen

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72 H2, 72 H1B, 74 H2, 74 H2 Cafê Racer, 71 F8 Bison

I re-did the decals... besides jetting the decals were the hardest part



The part of the reservoir the chain was hitting was just a lip to mount the plastic cap, I ground it off and it is good to go. The upper shock mount does concern me I will defiantly keep an eye on it, so far so good but I only have a few hundred miles on it.
The seat is stock. I don't think this bike could be "comfortable" for me no matter what..way to cramped compared to what I am used to.
Right now the handling is a bit off. The project has a-ways to go hoping this winter to solve the main handling issues. And if I keep working on it I may move the rear sets a bit which will help the comfort level.

The bog SUCKS!! BAD. I will keep trying jetting combos next spring, but as it sits it hits a HUGE wall at 5000 or so and unless I accelerate past 6000 fast it just won't pull past that unless you down shift.
I am glad the jets are so easy to change its almost silly how fast you can have them re-jetted so that is one plus.
I also have to recheck all my timing and make sure I'm spot on, a lot of good advice from those here with the Zeel so I cannot wait to dive into it again along with the jetting.
It may be just the way it is also, I am not 2 stoke savy and the power band thing is new to me so I don't know what to expect from the motor.
Right now it either feels like a big moped OR if I rev it out like a freaking bat out of hell trying to make me sit up and pay attention before I get killed, theres very little in between! I need to find someone somewhat close by that has a good running one and find out what they are like and have them ride this one and tell me what they think, that would help a lot.

I posted this in general chat but here is how it sits now, actually before, its apart again now

Hi Demus

From what you describe, it seems your mid range torque dip is severe. It happens at about 2/3 of max torque rpm, in your case around 5500 rpm.

I assume your exhaust duration is quite high? In that case, your exhaust pulse strength increase vs stock. I also assume the port have been made more square than stock. If so, the pulse get even stronger.

And your pipes seems to make quite a hard returning wave, made by the exhaust pulse and the shape of your baffle cone.
All this combined makes great power in powerband, but the disadvantage is that the mid range hurts.
If you are running the type of reeds in which has it tips located in the flow rear boost ports paths, they tend to get affected by this pulse when it travels down the boost ports just before piston close transfer/boost ports.
A piston port, rotary valve, case reeds and the big reeds located in big reed boxes placed outside the rear boost ports are also affected by this pulse arriving at the wrong moment, but not to the same extent as if you have a reed positioned partly in the rear boost port ducts, almost kissing the piston skirt.
You can cure some of it by your zeel, or another set of pipes like stock or higgspeed, or denco.

Jørgen

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72 H2, 72 H1B, 74 H2, 74 H2 Cafê Racer, 71 F8 Bison

Hi Jorgen,
Here are the posts on the porting on this bike which you have seen and respond to, thought Id post it here, just for a reference.
As always a lot of good advice and good people on this forum, its all much appreciated; viewtopic.php?f=14&t=10985

I would love to get new pipes to try just not in the budget yet!

Been doing some more work on the project. I am trying to get the rear shock straightened out with spring rate and possibly dampening.
I have removed the spring from the shock and remounted and measured the swing arm travel vrs the shock travel. And I contacted a suspension guy and hope to get some answers soon.
The Shock travels is linear, for every 10mm of swing arm travel the shock travel is just under 3mm. I hope I can just get a stiffer spring and be done with it , but somehow I doubt it.






Also I worked on some modifications to the Ignition rotor to try out next spring, I'll post some pics soon and see what you all think. If it don't work I can revert it back.

I am attempting to try to get more advance out of my Zeeltronic ignition.
What I found was even with the plates and pick ups advanced all the way on my engine, using the edge of the ignition rotor pick up as per Zeel instructions I could only get it set statically (not running) to 23.3 deg., piston drop of 3.22mm. After reading some stuff Jim H posted that the Zeel has some trouble with the stock Kawasaki pickups because they are so small and that there seemed to be a wide variance between the results I am getting compared to others. I acquired a second ignition rotor and modded it to get static timing to 35 deg, about 7.06mm piston drop. I should now be able to get stable operation with timing advance past 23 or 24 deg. I am hoping as suggested that advancing the timing will help the flat spot I am trying to resolve. When I tried to advance it before the Zeel would get weird and I believe it was because it was programed to close to the static angle. Once I backed off the max advance to less than 24 deg it would stop cutting out.

It was an easy Mod, but it is not tested yet. If it doesn't work I will simply go back to the other ignition rotor.

You can see I filled the original slot with epoxy and drilled a new index.
I was/am worried that the index slot may move in operation but i think there is enough of a lip of metal left and I used a dab of red loctight on the interference fit that goes into the rotor. By moving the index less than 1/8" and having the plates and pick ups advanced I actually had to back off the stock pick ups just a hair to get everything to align at 35 deg.
It of course changes all the stock marks so I remarked the rotor from 0 to 35 deg in 5 deg increments.
Once I get it running I will post results.

Joe, could you put up a pic of the Zeel system you have. The modded rotor looks like a stock one to me.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

John it is a stock Ignition rotor with the indexing "groove" filled in and then re-drilled to provide more advance.
The Zeel is a PCDI-30.
As Jim H posted elsewhere his experience is the Zeel fires when the ignition rotor and pick-up are nearly aligned when using the stock Kawasaki pick-ups. Not before as with the stock CDI.
This is where the Zeel instructions say to measure the static angle while the engine is not running.


This is the one ignition rotor I have. The indexing groove on the back won't allow me to get the static measurement beyond 23.3 deg. The red mark is where I needed to drill in order to advance it.


This is the other Ignition rotor I filled and drilled to allow the ignition rotor and pick-up static measurement to get to 35 deg.
I can now adjust the pick-ups if I need less or adjust the Zeel ignition.
The Zeel can work with up to 45 deg static angle setting and I can adjust the timing curve to any point below the static angle setting on the Zeel. So hopefully the static angle setting will be at or near 35 deg when I set it with the timing light and I will adjust it to 23, 24 , 25 or whatever max advance as needed for the timing curve, to help with the flat spot some.

You might have some trouble with that. Changing the rotor position like that throws off the magnet alignment with the stator. So you may not get a good spark.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

I've seen People drill the stator, and shift the pin a little - might be an easier way...!

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.