Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Nice!

_________________
"... don't drink the foam." Sonny B.

$200/pint for PPG Base??!!! SUCKAAAASS!!!!!
Its not even a real Kandy!!!

If you have a cheaper option I'd sure like to hear it...

Here is a pint of kandy $45

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PINT-UK09-ORG ... 33&vxp=mtr

and here is a pint of compatible base $60

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PINT-PBC49-SI ... 57&vxp=mtr

Not necessarily the right color combo for your bike but you get the idea. $200 for a quart of PPG basecoat is a rip. It will not look the same as a tri-coat in person. Pics do not show the tri-coat effect very well.

The green '74 H2 on the T-Shirts on Diablo's site is my old bike. I painted that and had used his Reproduction decals at the time. I am pretty sure I still have the paint code for the single stage PPG base/clear that I used. If you would like, I can try to dig it up if that helps. Paint was a pretty good match to an original side cover I had at the time.

TurboChris

I used his paint and had my buddy Doug Neef paint it.......one pint will do 2 bikes if you don't screw up.........I tried to have it mixed and when I used the paint codes at the PPG store, they could not identify some parts of the mix.

Dana at WFO is a great guy and you can call him, he will give you the "tips" to make it work.........I did mine Purple as I have an H2C tank (the decals only fit that year tank and color)........It really looks good and to me it really POP's in the sun.......it has all kinds of different metallic particles in it, worth the extra change........he does his own MIX

I beleive you may have to do a black base coat (or maybe black primer ?) with the green......also, RB (Rick Brett) sells decals, PM him or go to EBAY "Kawasaki H2"........the fresher and softer the better as they are a PITA

Here are my Notes

Painting 1975 Kawasaki H2C Candy Purple
Doug..

Images for decal placement

Per Discussion for my notes: from Dana WFOcustompaint

strip, blast, bondo, repair bodywork

Use regular grey PPG primer and wet sand .........(don't need any black....this is only for 74 lime green or candy tone gold)

3 to 4 coats of Candy Purple, paint under tank, inside side covers, inside
tail as well……NOTE: test on a paint card first !

Use Medium Reducer usually 1 ½ to 1……but can be 1 to 1 for thicker
paint……..depends on temperature

Use OMNI clear if available, looks better (older product part number 270 ?,
PPG ?)

Or use PPG Polyurethane clear (part 4220 or 2042…not sure ?)

Do the first coat of clear and color sand let dry for at least a few days (before decals, up to a week)

then apply decals (put 1 drop of dishwashing liquid
in spray bottle with water), let dry two days

Apply up to 3 more coats of clear

color sand, buff, wax………Done


Below is for Decals Installation: Tips to help you apply your graphics and is on Reproduction Decals

1) Roughly cut out the stripes/decals from the sheet (if not already).

2) Clean the surface that the decal will be applied to. The surface must be free of cleaners, solutions or solvents. If the surface has been freshly painted, allow at least a week for proper curing time. Paint that has not cured properly will attack the vinyl adhesive.

3) The clean part is carefully marked up with low tack masking tape or similar as a guide to correctly position the stripe.

4) Lightly mist with a mixture of water and a drop of dishwashing liquid, covering the whole area. Too much dishwashing liquid in the water will affect adhesion. This mist will enable the decal to be gently lifted off if the initial positioning is not accurate.

5) If the decal is between a backing paper and a transparent application tape. Peel off the backing paper making sure the whole graphic sticks to the application tape.

6) The “exposed” part of the stripe should be carefully aligned to the guides on tank/panel and gently placed in position. If the positioning is not right at this point the stripe/decal can be carefully pulled off the piece. If too much pressure has been has been used the vinyl can easily be stretched. When satisfied with its positioning the stripe can be smoothed down with a plastic squeegee or a piece of stiff card, expelling the water.

7) Peel back the application tape carefully, should the graphic start to lift push it back down then continue peeling back the tape. While it is still wet, push out any air pockets while being careful not to move the decal out of position. Always work any water or air pockets to the outside edges of the decals to avoid trapping them.

8) Decals should be allowed 24 hours to dry. If you have pushed out all air during the previous steps, the decal should not have air bubbles. Should any appear after drying, use a sewing needle to extract air with a very small hole. Small bubbles will disappear over time with exposure to sun.

9) Allow at least 2 days before applying a clear coat over your new graphics.

10) The decals should be carefully spirit wiped and allowed to dry, twice, before applying clearcoat to remove any traces silicone from the surface.

11) Applying a clearcoat is best left to an experienced painter. The decals must not stay wet for long. The first coat of clear must be what is sometimes called a “dry coat”. This is a light coat to seal them, which is allowed to dry before the final coat(s) are applied. If they are sprayed heavily with clear without doing this, the solvents in the clearcoat may attack the decals causing them to wrinkle or lift.

THX Phil

Good info, Thanks!

Excellent tips from Phil. Thanks for writing that all out. I've done a lot of decals, and one thing I like to do is use a heat gun while I squeegee out the water. Get the decals very dry before you attempt to remove the transfer tape. Then pull the tape slowly straight down at a 90 degree angle (perpendicular) to your stripe.