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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 1:30 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:52 pm
Posts: 1236
Location: South Dakota
I put a Shorai lithium ion battery in my 74 Z1A, an LFX14LS-BS12. I went for a ride and about 5 minutes later I could smell something weird so I pulled over and opened the seat and my new battery was hot and stinky so I quickly disconnected it. I was two blocks from home so I pushed it to the garage and took the battery out, it smelled horrible. I put a normal Yusa back in and fired it up and checked the voltage output and it was about 15.5 volts at 3500rpms which is close to the high side but within limits. I bought another Shorai and put it in the 900 and went for a cruise. 7 miles later I heard a pop like a firecracker and pulled over, lifted the seat and sure enough the lithium ion battery was smoking and had white powder all over it. I unhooked it and had a friend bring me the Yusa and I put it in and rode the bike for another hour with no problems, the red cable and the battery stayed cool. Why doesn't this bike like the lithium ion batteries? I have them in three other bikes and they have been great.

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1969 H1, 1971 G3SSA, 1974 G5, 1973 H2A, 1975 S3A, 1975 H1F, 1973 Z1, 1988 HD FLTC, Captain America chopper, 2000 Excelsior Henderson, 1965 Bridgestone BS90


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 1:39 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 10003
Location: North Central NC
15.5 volts is too high unless it's winter and the battery is very cold, and may just happen to be what you caught it at while it was rising. Ride the bike with the Yuasa battery in it, and when you get back, rev the engine a bit and watch the battery voltage. It may be going higher than you think.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:12 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:52 pm
Posts: 1236
Location: South Dakota
Jim, I finally had a chance to ride the Z1A again. I went for a ten minute ride and parked back in the driveway and put the volt meter on it. At 3000 rpm's it was showing almost 17 volts. Original voltage regulators are kind of spendy, what's my best alternative?

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1969 H1, 1971 G3SSA, 1974 G5, 1973 H2A, 1975 S3A, 1975 H1F, 1973 Z1, 1988 HD FLTC, Captain America chopper, 2000 Excelsior Henderson, 1965 Bridgestone BS90


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:43 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 10003
Location: North Central NC
I'm sorry, I'm not familiar with the Z1's electrical system, but you've certainly found out why you're losing batteries. If you have a link to the bike's wiring diagram, I might be able to tell you more.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 7:14 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:52 pm
Posts: 1236
Location: South Dakota
Here you go! http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/motoforge/2011-02-11_184453_z1-73-74-us.jpg

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1969 H1, 1971 G3SSA, 1974 G5, 1973 H2A, 1975 S3A, 1975 H1F, 1973 Z1, 1988 HD FLTC, Captain America chopper, 2000 Excelsior Henderson, 1965 Bridgestone BS90


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 7:24 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 10003
Location: North Central NC
It looks like a typical 3 phase permanent magnet alternator. An Oregon part number VRRPM3 should work. You can verify that by phoning them.

It's about 1/2 way down the page: http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 8:40 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:52 pm
Posts: 1236
Location: South Dakota
Thanks Jim! :D

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1969 H1, 1971 G3SSA, 1974 G5, 1973 H2A, 1975 S3A, 1975 H1F, 1973 Z1, 1988 HD FLTC, Captain America chopper, 2000 Excelsior Henderson, 1965 Bridgestone BS90


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 10:34 am 

Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2015 9:06 am
Posts: 3
Location: East Sussex UK
Lithium Ion batteries are nothing but trouble. We supply many special builders with wiring products (not these batteries) and they so many came back with tales of woe and how they'll never use them again. One guy entered his build in to a competition that was televised but because the ignition was left on by accident the lithium ion battery had deeply discharged and no amount of persuasion with a battery charger would bring it back to life. Brand new, it cost £150 and dead in a week.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 9:28 am 

Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 11:43 am
Posts: 311
Location: CT and Sometimes SC
Speedshop wrote:
Lithium Ion batteries are nothing but trouble. We supply many special builders with wiring products (not these batteries) and they so many came back with tales of woe and how they'll never use them again. One guy entered his build in to a competition that was televised but because the ignition was left on by accident the lithium ion battery had deeply discharged and no amount of persuasion with a battery charger would bring it back to life. Brand new, it cost £150 and dead in a week.


I disagree and have Lithium Batteries in more than a few vintage bikes. IMO they work great, no battery tenders, lighter weight, can be mounted any way you want, and they are always ready to go after a long winter. Yes, if you leave the key on or wire them into a parasitic situation they will die. And when they die, they die, no resurrection. With a modern rectifier/regulator available for most any vintage bike they work well and are maintenance free for our vintage steeds that may sit for long periods. If I have a battery to replace it gets a Lithium, even the lawn tractor.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 4:32 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 3:01 pm
Posts: 28
Location: Portland, Oregon
KTMguy is right, if there is a parasitic draw, you need a battery tender & not just any tender, but a dedicated lithium tender that balances the individual cell charges - Shorai's has multiple leads not just 2

Regarding a modern reg/rect to keep the lithium cells happy, a Shindengen mosfet is strongly recommended

http://www.roadstercycle.com/Shindengen ... 0about.htm

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Last edited by keithwwalker on Mon Apr 20, 2015 2:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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