Something else to check, these are rotary valve engines. The valve is a large disk with a window in it, under a cover behind the carb. Early bikes used a fiber disk that has been known to disintegrate. If you pull the carb off, you can see the disk, and will be able to see if it's in one piece or not as you turn the engine over.
Also be sure to set the point gap correctly. Changing the point gap will change the timing, and will affect how it runs.
pkmacheteblade wrote:
I've got a 73 KE-100 that ran when I bought it, then encountered some issues. Changed out entire carb, and fixed fuel tank and line and filter. Now it won't kick over... The lever is stiff and won't turn more than a few degrees. Wondering if this is an oil issue or something else. I'm at a loss as to what it is, any ideas?
If I had to guess, I'd say either gas or oil leaked down into the crankcase, and you're getting a hydrolock. Pull the plug and give a try. If that doesn't make any difference, it only takes 4 bolts to remove the head and cylinder to take a look in the crankcase. The head gasket is reusable, and the cylinder base gasket is still available for around $5 from the local Kawasaki dealer.