Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Problem: 2 exhausts are wet with oil, left and center.
The right one is dry. I am running the oil pump.
I have checked the oil pump, the oil lines, the oil passages in crankcase and cilinder.
All seems well, but the right cilinder still get less oil then left and center.
Can anyone give me some light and advice?

Thanks,

Cor

With the bike warmed up and idling, do you feel the same power pulse and heat with your hand when placed 1/2" off of each exhaust tip?
Maybe that cylinder is not firing consistently.

_________________
There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

There is an oil pump output test in the manual you can use to determine the correct flow of oil at each of the three output oil lines. If this is correct have a look at the large banjo bolt (at the cylinder's base) for an obstruction in its tiny orifice. The other place of concern is sometimes people goop up the base gasket with sealant and plug the small orifice that is drilled into the base of the intake port.

J

Go read the oil pump service bulletins on mraxl's site.

Thanks for your help!

I found this on Kawasaki Triple Resources:

http://www.kawtriple.com/mraxl/bulletin ... 073%20H-16

Think this is the problem.
Gonna try another oilpump before it is to late.


Regards,

Cor

The pump repair kits (99990-016) in the service mod occasionally show up. A couple of us got them for $30+shpg from vintagekawasaki.com earlier this year, but they show as "sold out" now. There's a kit on eBay now that Johnny's is selling, but he wants $50: 99990-016 from Johnny's It might be worth a more careful search.

_________________
If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I would personally just loosen the oil line feed to the pump and get some air in the system, then watch the bubbles in the lines.

_________________
Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Modern metric O rings, much better than the originals, are available just about everywhere, including where you live. To modify the end cap to hold the O rings better, trim ..010/.015 off the mating surface of the end cap. Tis will preload the O ring sealing area tighter.

Bleeding the pump at the pump end of the oil line will get the pump bled, but, getting the oil through the line has to be done by pressuring oil throuth the oil line. To correctly bleed the lines, use a boxed end wrench on the nut for the cable pulley on the top of the pump, to hold the pump all the way pen, then, run the engine at 1,500 to 2,000 rpms, while watching the air in the lines get pumped all the way out. The LEFT line takes the longest to purge, because of its length from the pump.

To bleed the pump inlet cavity, I always bled by first loosening the banjo bolt, bleed, tightened the bolt back up, then, loosened the end cap two screws and tilted the cap out at its top, to bleed the inlet cavity of the pump, then, bled the lines in th4e manner described in the last paragraph above.

Also, when I bleed oil pump systems, I use what we call "beater plugs". These are correct heat range plugs for the engine, only they are take outs, long gone for regular use, so I don't kill a new set of plugs. I also clean the engine out of excessive oil after pump bleeding with those beaters in place, by riding the bike and revving through the gears in the usual manner. I then take the beater plugs to the fire, use my propane torch to heat away the excessive oil, then, bead blast 'em, making them ready for the next oil bleed operation I would need to do.

Just FYI.