Modern metric O rings, much better than the originals, are available just about everywhere, including where you live. To modify the end cap to hold the O rings better, trim ..010/.015 off the mating surface of the end cap. Tis will preload the O ring sealing area tighter.
Bleeding the pump at the pump end of the oil line will get the pump bled, but, getting the oil through the line has to be done by pressuring oil throuth the oil line. To correctly bleed the lines, use a boxed end wrench on the nut for the cable pulley on the top of the pump, to hold the pump all the way pen, then, run the engine at 1,500 to 2,000 rpms, while watching the air in the lines get pumped all the way out. The LEFT line takes the longest to purge, because of its length from the pump.
To bleed the pump inlet cavity, I always bled by first loosening the banjo bolt, bleed, tightened the bolt back up, then, loosened the end cap two screws and tilted the cap out at its top, to bleed the inlet cavity of the pump, then, bled the lines in th4e manner described in the last paragraph above.
Also, when I bleed oil pump systems, I use what we call "beater plugs". These are correct heat range plugs for the engine, only they are take outs, long gone for regular use, so I don't kill a new set of plugs. I also clean the engine out of excessive oil after pump bleeding with those beaters in place, by riding the bike and revving through the gears in the usual manner. I then take the beater plugs to the fire, use my propane torch to heat away the excessive oil, then, bead blast 'em, making them ready for the next oil bleed operation I would need to do.
Just FYI.
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