Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Ok I have one oli line that just wont co operate. I cleaned them, replaced the check valve ball, pressure tested to specs then slightly over spec to try and get it to seal but it still leakes past the check valve. Last thing I can think of is the crush washer at the check ball. These are probably a one time use Id bet. Any idea if you can get NOS or replacements for them. Not the banjo bolt crush washer, the little tiny one inside the oil line under the spring and ball. Its not a synthetic oil issue either, tryed old school 2 stroke and synthetic seeps past with either. Bugger filled my crank case up with oil after sitting for 3-4 months. Good think I noticed it before I tryed to start it.

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Chicken strips are for kids.

Ask the Dark Overlord himself.


New Oil Line Info !!
http://3cyl.com/mraxl/oillines/oil_lines.htm

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Bad decisions make the best stories.

One thing that comes to mind is the seat that the ball sets on, people recut the seat or lap the seat with abrasives.

As in a poppet valve the narrower the contact area of the seat the better.

When I do check valves I leave the stock configuration alone and use a light polishing compound to clean the seat.

I think any changing the original configuration is a mistake.

Also if your check valves are working properly you should not be filling your crankcase. But I don't think there are many check valves that are 100% effective.

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Using a poorly conceived idea along with bad mechanical practice is not an upgrade but rather a recipe for disaster.

The reason these valves still leak after being cleaned is usually corrosion pits on either the ball, or brass seat, or both. The offending pits can easily be seen using a 10X magnifying glass.

Both the Gentlemen (Darth and 12dot) who offer check valve overhaul services are well aware of the need to maintain a narrow seat for proper ball sealing. As such the seat is re-cut and narrowed during the rebuild. New balls and springs are used hence increasing the cracking pressure to meet Kaw's latest specifications.

Properly serviced lines should not leak at all at rest. They will continue to do so for a very long time if kept full of oil having sufficient anti corrosion properties.

J

Any recommendations or warranty specifications?

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http://kawatriple.com/wtf/

Now if there was any place to find the rebuildable check valves and have the new lines built for the 74H2B, I would be in business.........I have the all plastic ones, I did get a second set when I bought my bike though.........they guy was running premix.........first thing I did was find and order all the banjo's and made lines to the carbs and reinstalled the oil injection........I picked the newer looking set of lines, and I found air bubbles in the middle and left lines about two months later.......I put the other set on after cleaning them lightly with carb cleaner (low pressure), they seem to be holding up for now.........don't want to put a fortune in a new crank and motor rebuild till I can get some good lines.

THX Phil

Thanks for all the input. I had 2 leaking through, cleaned them up one is holding good the other needs a re clean and polish. Cant wait to get the paint on it and ride it come spring. Or the first day over 40 degrees lol

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Chicken strips are for kids.

Ok had the check valves overhauled. They came back set to about 5.9 ish. Any hard in a little too much pressure?

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Chicken strips are for kids.

That is about 30% over spec.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

All re set to about 4.7-4.9 this bike will be the death of me lol.

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Chicken strips are for kids.