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Don H1E
PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:41 pm 

Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:48 am
Posts: 5
Location: Cedar Falls, IA
Ja-Moo, this system has it's own parts and doesn't use any of the stock pieces.

Arne, I'll be interested to hear your timing light results and then check mine up
to 6500 rpm. Also, my ign. switch and kill switch both work as intended without
the battery.
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chong1
PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 9:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 8:43 pm
Posts: 40
Location: Southern California
Arne wrote:
Hey Don,
I have the system and realized mine hits a wall at 6,500rpms as well. Tonight I will strobe the ignition through the rev range to check, but I am thinking that it retards too much and needs advance. The strobe light will show for sure.

The system doesn't need a battery at all, only if you want to have the ignition switch actually stop the engine (the battery switches a relay).

That's what I had to do to my system to get it to run right. Try advancing 2 degrees and see what happens from there.

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ImageChong
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Arne
PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:22 pm 

Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 11:03 am
Posts: 87
so I can confirm chong's post. it needs WAY more advance. I have a video but it's hard to see anything. I set the firing point to 6mm before TDC!! now it screams past 6500 and fires where it's supposed to.
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Don H1E
PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 2:16 pm 

Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:48 am
Posts: 5
Location: Cedar Falls, IA
I set mine to 5mm. Using my crappy Craftsman timing light and indicator it came
out to between 24/25 deg. of timing. There is definetly some timing delay built
into this system. Just got back from a road test and it ran just fine.
Thank you guys for all the help!

Regards, Don
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jherbicide
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 9:00 am 

Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:20 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Des Moines, IA, USA
This may be a dumb question, but how did you guys reference TDC with the rotor on? (reference for the strobe)

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Current bikes listed in length of ownership

1975 Harley FXe (used to be E)
1983 Harley FLTC
1975 Kawasaki H1
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Arne
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 3:23 pm 

Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 11:03 am
Posts: 87
piston stop, turn full clockwise, mark rotor marking to plate, turn full anticklockwise, mark rotor marking to plate, find middle.
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Ja-Moo
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 4:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
You don't really need to find TDC. Just use a dial gauge, or digital caliper and zero it when the piston stops moving the indicator up, Then turn clockwise until you get 3.45mm, then mark the flywheel and some where on the case so they match. Then use a timing light to match them up.

Here is a vid on it for the later models, but getting a indicator location is the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ye_z91j ... zJnTbl_QQw

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........
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jherbicide
PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 3:24 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:20 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Des Moines, IA, USA
Thanks Arne and Moo,

On this ignition you adjust the rotor to time it; so it makes it a pain to establish a baseline.

edit: The rotor covers the left side of the crankshaft.

Image

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Current bikes listed in length of ownership

1975 Harley FXe (used to be E)
1983 Harley FLTC
1975 Kawasaki H1
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battleax
PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:42 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 3:35 pm
Posts: 562
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
I did not look at this post as I have been busy riding, but as was stated I have Jim's complete early ignition replacement in my H1A, works perfectly.

You do retain the stock charging system but I replaces pulsers, CDI box, coils, and eliminates the distributor.

Anybody who wants to see it and try the bike is more than welcome. Come on down.

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Using a poorly conceived idea along with bad mechanical practice is not an upgrade but rather a recipe for disaster.
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