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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:36 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
To All

This does not look good at all :cry: ........I have just started having some transmission 1st gear issues........pulled the motor and opened it up.......figured bent shift fork and burned.......found several issues, crank bearings wasted and now a hairline crack with the small needle bearing goes on the output shaft boss (sprocket end) of the trans where the dowel pin sits, which is somewhat oblonged and a bit loose now :problem:

the crack as you can se comes in sideways and is also starting vertically at a 90 degree angle :shock:

I am sure this is a really stupid question, but I will ask anyways.......has anybody ever been able to heliarc this and remachine ?.......or basically start looking for a set of cases :?:

Also, a bit of galling on the left crank boss (maybe not bad), and on the right side (maybe not to bad either).....the bearings never spun

OR DOES ANYBODY HAVE A SET OF H2 CASES FOR SALE.....Please PM me if so.......there is two sets on EBAY, one has had the pins pushed in and the other looks really rough

Please advise and thank you guys very much......Phil Mosher

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
That sucks! :thumbdown: Pushed pins are not a big deal, if it is a good price. Not sure welding will work and not deform the cases.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 6:48 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 3:06 am
Posts: 4364
Location: PARIS FRANCE
the worse on yours pictures is the bearing seat for crankcases, very bad, add the fact as if you weld around the gearbox pin failure you would deform the cases as wrote Mo :?
try to find some good cases would be a better solution.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 7:58 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:03 pm
Posts: 2605
Location: Birthplace of Minnesota
the crack can be fixed, but the cost to cost ratio of having a QUALIFIED welder/machinist fix it vs. just finding a new set of cases......

I'd find a new set of cases.


Phil, what is the serial number of your cases? Maybe someone here has something laying around.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 8:18 am 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Moo, Husson, Scrambler

Thank You guys and that is what I figured........Somebody up in Kalamooza Michigan was drag racing this bike and it's not hard to tell, 4 of the 6 crank bearings are wasted, crack in the case, leaking seals, may need a few trans parts........holy crap !

I just spoke with Charlie and ready to send him the crank for all new parts and KOYO bearings and rods, spoke to Moo to get him the heads and Cyl's......was gonna send the cases to get blasted, now this :banghead

Scrambler 73, I will check on the Case number.....I beleive it is 38XXX......I don't really care about the serial number as somebody put a different engine in the bike anyways (the numbers are off by 2000) and I actually want to modify for a three line pump (drilled passages in the cases)......If you know of a set of cases any year (I think they will work ?) PLEASE LET ME KNOW, and I will make worth while......that would be a godsend my friend :!:

There is a set on EBAY that have the pins pushed in that does not look too bad at $395......do you drill above them and push them out ?.......the other set on ebay looks really nasty

THX Phil


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 9:06 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 11:04 am
Posts: 3490
Location: Capitol of Ca, USA
I'd also recommend having your next set of cases machined

http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/mounts/rubbermount.htm

to accept the H1

http://www.hard-to-find-parts.de/pd1271427127.htm?categoryId=22

or Suzuki GT rubber mounts (email them to confirm availability before ordering)

http://www.ronayers.com/09319-10017-P3639537.aspx

while you're doing the total rebuild.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 9:56 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:28 pm
Posts: 1574
Location: Tampa Bay Florida
A little off topic but while your cases are bare, grind/file a chamfer into the end of the crank bores (where the seal goes) so that if you ever have to change an outer crank seal in the future you can avoid the step of stuffing a paper towel or whatever in to (hopefully) protect the bearing while chamfering in place, and the new seal goes in with ease! :wave:

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 12:33 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
ThreePipes.....thats not a bad idea, some cushion may have helped.......and cut down on vibration......I have looked at that, may consider seeing as I have done about all the other mods

Kawi3Cyl......that is a great tip, I have read that but forgot about it.....I will put a small chamfer on the outside of where the Main Seals go in (L&R)......this may be good for the sprocket as well ?

Well, I will try to PM JRD and see what he thinks, but I am leaning toward a set of cases at this point.

THX You guys :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 12:55 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:28 pm
Posts: 1574
Location: Tampa Bay Florida
BBP wrote:
Kawi3Cyl.....thats not a bad idea, some cushion may have helped.......and cut down on vibration......I have looked at that, may consider seeing as I have done about all the other mods

ThreePipes......that is a great tip, I have read that but forgot about it.....I will put a small chamfer on the outside of where the Main Seals go in (L&R)......this may be good for the sprocket as well ?

Well, I will try to PM JRD and see what he thinks, but I am leaning toward a set of cases at this point.

THX You guys :thumbup:

There, I fixed the names. :lol: Yes, the sprocket seal bore should be pre-chamfered too! :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 1:46 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
You got my on that one :oops: , I wrote a little note before I posted and goofed the order up.......working on phone system programming at the same time.......but it worked ! :clap:

THX Much Phil :mrgreen:


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