Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Mark's mod shows to move the hole 10mm towards the spline.
Do you need to remove the section of the arm behind the new hole?
Are there any mods required to the rectangular arms for clearance?

Last question: I want to replace the lame phillips actuator body to case hold down screws with Allen cap screw.
Any idea what the angle of the counter sink is as the face of the screw is below the face of the actuator?
For that matter, will a 90 degree head work as that is the only choice from McMaster Carr.

TIA

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There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

The mod wasn't necessary for me on the Phoenix. But that being said, it took a lot of fiddling with the adjustment. I'd use regular allen head bolts the same length. I don't think you will have a problem. Just make sure the arm clears them.

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I Love the Smell of Blue Marble in the Morning!!!
Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
Home of the Phoenix Project
Stay in it when it comes on the pipe, no need to be scared...

I just did it, look on my progress thread. And mine did have an counter sunk angle, look closely at the holes. I don't see a problem with the Phillips though.....

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Thanks guys.
I've spent countless hours in the past as well as about 6 hours with the mod and set up.
The unit will not give a full release to my satisfaction no matter what the adjustment.
I'm going to buy Leo's actuator and be done with this thing.

IMO, no matter where you position the arm, fulcrum or adjustment, it does not move the rod as far as the stock unit.
I do have an EX500 clutch perch/lever and that has allowed me to make up the adjustment with the "throw" of the clutch lever so I think I achieved the fulcrum arm mod by using a setting that pulled the cable further.

_________________
There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

Of course it won't move as far as the the stocker, that is why it's an easier pull, it's a finer thread. I have extra plates, and am having the same trouble. I ordered a dogleg lever to see if that helps. If not, will just re-install the ball bearing mechanism.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

I have the clutch mod with extra plates as well
I just hate that it clunks into first gear from a stop and pulls the idle down.
Does Leo's actuator move the same amount as a stocker?

Never had a ball bearing stocker; all of mine have been plastic

_________________
There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

Leo's is a better design with a longer throw.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Thanks John
I did find a stocker with a plastic case and a metal pusher and it does work properly
Surprisingly, the clutch pull wasn't all that bad.
This unit has no cracks but should I assume that it's only a matter of time before the outer shell does crack?

_________________
There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

Yeah, they will probably crack soon under the heavy springs.

_________________
Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Oops' my mistake.
Leo uses a hydraulic clutch; Ralph make the new actuator.

_________________
There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)