Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Been trying to figure out the bleeding of my EX250 m/c on my project S2. Finally took suggestion to disconnect banjo and hose at m/c, place thumb over outlet, and pump lever until pressure builds up. It did wonders and while I still have some bleeding to do, it was a relief to finally have some firmness at the lever. Reading several online posts on bleeding, I came upon banjo bolts that have an integral bleed nipple. Spiegler offers some nice ones http://www.spieglerusa.com/single-banjo-bleeder-bolt-1673.htm,


but I decided to try the more economical Nissin brand http://www.oppracing.com/product_display/7134-lightech-anodized-banjo-bolts-nissin-single-banjo-bolt-with-bleeder/.


I will bolt up to my m/c upon delivery, and report back with results and images.

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"Only cheat the cheaters, boy - you can't cheat an honest man!" Mordecai Jones - The Flim Flam Man.

Very COOL

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I Love the Smell of Blue Marble in the Morning!!!
Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
Home of the Phoenix Project
Stay in it when it comes on the pipe, no need to be scared...

^^+1

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she will never be pretty but she is a fun ride.

73 KAWASAKI H1 (Sold).
82 YAMAHA RD350LC
2000 KAWI KDX200H
2001 Triumph TT600

those b;leeder banjo bolts have been available for decades, good stuff. I have a 1986 GMC Safari van with factory 5 speed and hydraulic clutch. The master is angled downward a couple of degrees out of the firewall, and when the weather gets cold, air pockets get into the pressure chamber, slacking the clutch to the pint of no disengage. It used to be pull the master, hold rod wne higher than outlet end, gently pump the master to bleed the air back through the bleed hole, reinstall master. Now, with the new bleeder banjo, just crack the bleeder open, watch for the last of the air to get out, close banjo, drive it, clutch works golden.

What you did before with the thumb/finger over the outlet port, is called 'bench bleeding', and is usually done with a tube from the outlet port back into the reservoir. But, when the tube is removed, most of the prime fluid in the pressure chamber is lost out the outlet port. Better to do it the way you are doing, works so much easier.

I have found bleeding mc brakes is very easy if you use a syringe and back fill it from the bleeder screw. Find a bigger syringe and a piece of rubber tubing that fits snuggly over the bleeder . Zip ty the hose onto the syringe and wrap the bleeder screw with some Teflon tape so air won't go past the threads when it is open. Fill the syringe, bleed the air out of it and put it over the bleeder screw and push the new fluid in.

Another trick if you have some air in the brake system is to pull the brake lever back and zip ty to the bars. Leave it overnight.

This has worked for me too.
Before this, I had to take the caliper off the bike and hold it just right to bleed it thoroughly probably because of the caliper and SS brake line locations.

Does Dot 5.1 bleed any easier than Dot 4?

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There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
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From every experience with DOT 5, all versions of it that I have ever had, it can hold air bubbles for long periods of time, and doesn't like force bleeding much.

After getting the caliper filled, I usually back bleed the line to the master, and only after getting the master and line(s) filled, will I finish bleed the caliper, and to a last gravity bleed up past the bypass port in the master.

With GOT 5, the key is to go S L O W, don't force it much, and, if possible, don't get it aerated, gravity bleed it from there.

Gravity bleeding is gently pumping the master while holding it with the lever end up from the outlet, and getting the air to escape though the bypass port in the reservoir.

I don't use much GOT 5 fluid, even on the race bikes/cars. DOT 4 seems to work just as well, with a lot less bleeding hassles.

Ive got a spare master cylinder that I use to back-bleed stubborn front brakes. This works especially well on factory dual disc set-ups.

MC is mounted low (usually clamped to post on bike-lift), with brakeline connected to bleed screw of caliper(s). Pump the system full pushing all the air up hill until no bubbles remain in bikes' master cyl.....done.
and if the bikes' mc gets full before all bubbles are gone, I use a syringe to suck the excess out.