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 Post subject: G3SS modification help
PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 12:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:04 pm
Posts: 2223
Location: Just north of Toronto, Ontario
I've been busy searching for info on modifying a G3SS in hopes of raising the stock 10.5 HP...
I've gone through my A.Graham Bell book which describes profiling the roof of the intake port to be rounded and leaving about 2mm for the rotary valve to seat plus angling the sides to radiate outward kind of pie shaped (not changing the timing)
The other mod was to chamfer the roof of the intake port close to the crank and fill the bottom to direct the flow over the crank throw.
This sounds pretty straight forward but not sure if it would pertain to the G3 or not???
I found one link where a fella said that there was an addition to a Cleymer manual that has an additional section for hop-ups for this motor as well but had no luck locating it on the web...
Maybe a long way to ask this question, but does anyone here have any suggested reading on the subject or info on some mods that are known to work?
I'd really like to tackle this one myself as it being a single cylinder, it's easier for my first home brewed port job.
Also, if anyone could recommend a max Rpm target as I'd like to start working on the pipe too.
Thanks.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:08 pm
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Location: Campbellville Ontario
Have you considered getting it running nicely before applying the Dremel? It would be more gratifying to know what "seat of the pants" effect you have achieved over stock.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:47 pm 
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Logical for sure but considering the porting will be next to the crank, I'd have to completely disassemble again... I just know I'm too lazy for that... :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:57 pm 
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Find a G4 100 cylinder, they are aluminum, that would be a good start. And modding the rotary valve cover for a bigger carb.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 2:12 pm 
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I'm still trying to wrap my head around interchangeability...
Is this one compatible?

http://bit.ly/ThJitU

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 3:45 pm 
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No, that is listed wrong, that's a later cylinder.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 3:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2012 8:12 am
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I think I have one NOS 11005-061-21 - If you're interested, I'll check.

11005-054 is the part number for the 1970 G31M G31-M Centurion aka Green Streak 100 as well as the 1971 G31M-A

I'm not sure if either will drop in or in the cases need to be bored

Seems like it would just drop in.....

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 4:09 pm 
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Thanks for the part numbers Steve!
Any idea for the upper rpm limit? I believe the rated max HP was at 8.5k
Can I assume about 10-10.5?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 4:17 pm 
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Walms wrote:
Thanks for the part numbers Steve!
Any idea for the upper rpm limit? I believe the rated max HP was at 8.5k
Can I assume about 10-10.5?


Boy, I have no idea.

The Centurion G31M Green Streak 100 was supposed to be 18.5HP

http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Kawasaki_G31M

They used all steel rotary valves where the others used a fiber one (also thicker than the steel ones)

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 7:22 pm 

Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:34 pm
Posts: 676
Location: orange CA
I would try my best to find satisfaction with a carb, pipe, and good tune up. I am kicking myself for dropping 400 bucks on the porting/ carb work/ cylinder head profiling I had done on my 175 yamaha, all the fun of easy low end torque is gone..... The bike sucks now. Its not so much the money it's just a pita to put back to stock. In fact I won't I'll just sell it:(. Some bikes are so darn good from the factory you should just leave em alone.


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