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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 1:06 pm 

Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2011 9:43 am
Posts: 21
Thanks guys for the kind words.

For getting the timing down, I did make sure that the rotor falls between the marks at TDC...many times over. As for the plug wires, I have been back through them numerous times as well.

I am running a starfire unit (one of the first models that he originally produced) so I need to make sure all is good there.
I am getting spark, but two of the cylinders dont fire as strong as the center plug for some reason...?

Ill try switching the pickup wires and see what that does for me.

Thanks again for the comments and advice.

Jens


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 5:51 pm
Posts: 94
Location: The hills above Santa Cruz, CA
Sharp looking build!

I like your mods to the tail section, at least what I can see.
When you can, post some pics of it from the back :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 3:11 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:00 am
Posts: 1010
Location: Southern Ontario, Canada
Dayles box typically fires upon the approach of the rotor prong to pickup, VS the retreat of rotor as used in the stock system. As such the timing marks are now unreliable and you will definitely need a strobe light even for initial setup.

Be sure your pickup/rotor gap is down around .016in on the tightest of the three rotor prongs (measure all of them)..

Dayle has posted to use a 1.4 ohm ballast resistor in series with the supply wire for the early ZX units you may want to consider:

http://3cyl.com/mraxl/starfire/Mark2/ZXmk2.htm

J


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 4:33 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:39 pm
Posts: 737
Location: Narooma NSW Aus
Very nice work that bike looks Tick :thumbup: :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:04 pm
Posts: 2223
Location: Just north of Toronto, Ontario
Now that's a wicked stance! 8-)


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 11:14 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 12:25 pm
Posts: 66
Location: Philadelphia
The TZ ducktail is one of my favorites. Any more shots of it? Did you leave it "open" on the underside or fiber glass it closed?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 9:42 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 1:30 am
Posts: 215
Location: New Zealand
Very Nice!! Now, if you do continue to have problems with timing this, get in touch with me.. I am happy to replace your early CDI unit with the latest version free of charge. I have gone back through my records, but cannot figure what version Starfire box you have, I know this is going back a while. there was a short run of version two that did fire on the approach, this was to initiate an automatic timing curve that never eventuated. Loons is correct, by reversing the leads on the pickup, this will make the unit fire as it recedes... either way is fine, but its a bit of buggering about which really shouldnt be necessary. The amount it will be out... if you do have this version, would normally not prevent the bike from running... it just meant the pickup was at the extreme of its adjustment range to get the timing correct. The added ballast also will not alter anything... this was purely to protect the early Starfire units from a overly high charging voltage, common in the H1s because of the old mechanical regulator issues. Also, before going further, check the distributor rotor timing... here I believe the manual is in error. Mark the rotor position on the cover when number one cylinder is at the firing point. Offer up the dizzy cap, and make sure the brass rotor contact is directly opposite the correct tower in the cap. If not, the side cover can be loosened and the cogs slipped to get this in line. The bike will run with minor discrepancies, but the spark will need to jump the added gap caused by the misalignment, causing lower spark energy at the plugs.. Loons has mentioned this on the old site before. The manual I have simply states the rotor should be between the marks at TDC... this does NOT work at some positions.

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http://3cyl.com/mraxl/starfire/starfire.htm


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 11:47 pm 

Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2011 9:43 am
Posts: 21
Starfire, when I get a chance I will do a better investigation of the running issue. I appreciate your response and willingness to help me out!

On another note, made some small progress today...machined some mounts for the silencers. I didn't want to weld on the bolt flange ring directly onto the chamber, just in case I want to take them off and go deaf later...

Stared with a machined plate and half a tube clamp
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Welded them together and milled in some pockets to allow cap screws for mounting silencers
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Finished product with bolt on side
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Now on the bike
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That's all for today, thanks for following

Jens


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 7:03 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:08 pm
Posts: 1901
Location: Campbellville Ontario
Nice. I love that clamp.. :idea: :idea:


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 8:45 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 8:07 pm
Posts: 1759
Location: houston texas
very neat work :clap:
what brand silencers are they?
cheers mark

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