Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Ivan Rovinsky dyno tested an H2 with the stock airbox, with and without the snorkle. I never saw that he tested the stock air box vs. individual filters.
One thing would be the K&N style filters as opposed to the UNIs, my experience with the chromed capped filters on the H1 was very bad. Again just UNIs were way better and UNIs with elbows were just short of miraculous.
A notable improvement was new needle jets, a whole Ivan's kit without the stock air box would be interesting.

_________________
Using a poorly conceived idea along with bad mechanical practice is not an upgrade but rather a recipe for disaster.

I'd like to see what happens with a short velocity stack before the filter
I'm using a Fernco, plumbing part which is a straight piece of rubber tubing that is approximately 3" long and will fit even with the long, black Uni's.

_________________
There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

Maybe a variety of pipes as well...

_________________


http://kawatriple.com/wtf/

Add boiled peanuts, and it's a Party!!!

I've seen K&N's cost power on modern fuel injected bikes, not a good mod.

Toss in the fact they do not actually filter that well and I gave up on them years ago, although my 944 still has one in it.....

_________________
steve

A bit of a follow up:
I was curious to see what the typical uni costs in HP and/or thoughts to minimize losses. Today I cleaned my Unis, first by dipping them into mineral spirits and then in a bucket of warm soapy water, followed by a rinse of warm water from the tap. They had been oiled with the sticky Uni oil in the past.

I would never consider NOT running filters!! Given the HEAP of fine silt and muck that came out of these I'm glad I oiled them too.

I could not bring myself to omit the oil on them after observing the above. However, this time rather than apply raw sticky Uni oil to the filters directly I cut the oil 50/50 with mineral spirits and sprayed the mixture on the cleaned filters, with an old Windex bottle. I then rolled the filters between the palms of my hands to work the mixture in. When the spirits evaporated there was only a slight film of oil remaining (enough to see a shine on your fingers if you squeezed the filter).

I think this is probably about the best trade off between protection from dirt and minimizing HP losses..

J

Just wondering if you noted any difference in your jetting between dirty and the cleaned/ oiled filter?

_________________


http://kawatriple.com/wtf/

Unknown, as there are too many variables (still playing with jetting for new bottom end/cold weather).

What I did see was a slight drop of rpms at idle when I installed the freshened Uni filters (had them off to sync carbs with unisyc).

Speaking of sync, during cable sync 1 flat adjustment (1 sixth turn) of the cable adjuster shows up on the unisync with this new bottom end!

J

Scott, did you get lab seals? Or rubber?

Z

Kleine installed the rubber Sudco seals I supplied him at time of rebuild. I also suggested he loctite the sleeves to the crankpins the seals ride on....

Regarding the latter, I've seen several cranks now that the seal sticks to the spacer and the main crank pin(s) spins within the spacer. This would cause the leak between cylinders rubber seals are often condemned for, when it is not their fault......

J