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Enthusiasts from around the world dedicated to the preservation and ritual flogging of the infamous Kawasaki 2-stroke Triples
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:20 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:06 pm
Posts: 134
Location: Houston, TX
Very cool! Glad to have another Triple owner around town.
Thanks for asking....Well, its slow to go at the moment. My crank is back at porschedave's place getting rebuilt again due to the mishap I had a few months ago.
http://kawi2strokes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=2819
But, I'm ready to get back into it again.
May start on my other H1 here shortly too...need to lose a few pounds so what better way than to sweat it off in this crazy heat in the garage. 8-)

I'm on the north side in Spring, so if you need anything, don't be shy!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 11:55 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 8:07 pm
Posts: 1759
Location: houston texas
Hey Greg, hows it going any progress on either of your builds ?
cheers mark

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she will never be pretty but she is a fun ride.

73 KAWASAKI H1 (Sold).
82 YAMAHA RD350LC
2000 KAWI KDX200H
2001 Triumph TT600


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 1:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:06 pm
Posts: 134
Location: Houston, TX
Its been a bit of a challenge lately to be honest. :thumbdown:
Noticed a bubble in the paint around the gas cap. That was not fun...cut out, sanded down...and went ahead and used the flat black paint I bought originally for the stripe down the top of the tank instead of trying to touch up the gold. Of course, I do not have the makeshift paint booth up anymore, so its not the best job, but it came out acceptable for this project I guess.
Image
Coated the inside of the tank with Caswells 2 part sealer prior to that- needed to be done. Stuff is great by the way!

Cut up the cafe style seat to angle up more in back, and bought a new rear tail light because it looked like it might rub if I hit a hard enough bump...these early H1 rear ends tend to sit pretty low.
Was thinking maybe adding longer shocks, but looks like there might be an issue with chain/swing arm clearance, so it was a quick fix...and looks better anyway I think.

Got the crank back. Put the motor back together and in the bike. Broke the bolt that holds the signal rotor on during assembly. Then broke the extractor i was using and a few drill bits... but finally got it out and replaced with a new bolt. That was fun. :banghead

Took off the rebuilt stock petcock because there was a slight "nick" on the shaft/diaphragm area where the o-ring fits that I believe may have been causing a slow leak...went with a cheap on/off style replacement for now.
Carbs are still the main issue at the moment. Trying to get enough fuel to run, but not leak into the cases.....I'm a bit paranoid now, but for good reason.
I've had them apart at least 5 times....
It just will not start now since putting all back together?
Got CDI buzzing as normal, got spark on all three plugs, not sure if it has enough air or fuel to get it going yet I guess. Trying to get a sputter at least. Tried a little starting fluid and still nothing....crazy!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 7:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 8:07 pm
Posts: 1759
Location: houston texas
have you checked the timming ?
cos you say you have spark ,gas,and compression.
its probably something simple you have overlooked.
are the plugs getting wet/gas ?
you had a tough run of breakages there. :banghead
keep the faith you will get it.
cheers mark

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she will never be pretty but she is a fun ride.

73 KAWASAKI H1 (Sold).
82 YAMAHA RD350LC
2000 KAWI KDX200H
2001 Triumph TT600


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:10 pm 

Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2011 10:14 pm
Posts: 21
Location: D/FW, TX
From the pics in your post dated Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:29 pm...

Probably has nothing to do with anything, but it caught my eye...I think your fuel filters are mounted backwards.
They look just like the Visu-Filters on my S3...and mine have an arrow molded into the body of the filter showing the direction of fuel flow.

I imagine that your tires would probably work "okay" if you mount them opposite the rotation arrow...but why would you?

Best regards, Rich


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 9:19 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:06 pm
Posts: 134
Location: Houston, TX
orionengnr wrote:
From the pics in your post dated Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:29 pm...

Probably has nothing to do with anything, but it caught my eye...I think your fuel filters are mounted backwards.
They look just like the Visu-Filters on my S3...and mine have an arrow molded into the body of the filter showing the direction of fuel flow.

I imagine that your tires would probably work "okay" if you mount them opposite the rotation arrow...but why would you?

Best regards, Rich


Hmm, yes, they are Visu-Filters.
The "Flow" arrow points toward the base (large end) of the cone....they are installed correctly. The bike ran OK back then too.
Maybe the ones you have are different? Thanks though.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 9:57 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:06 pm
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Location: Houston, TX
two-stroke-brit wrote:
have you checked the timming ?
cos you say you have spark ,gas,and compression.
its probably something simple you have overlooked.
are the plugs getting wet/gas ?
you had a tough run of breakages there. :banghead
keep the faith you will get it.
cheers mark


It could be the timing, but I didn't change anything on that end....other than the bolt that holds the signal rotor on.
I pulled all the plugs on the last go around and noticed the right side plug was firing intermittently? At one point didn't spark at all....so I changed that plug, swapped out the rotor, checked the plug wires at the distributor and plug caps, all looked good and was sparking as normal.
During the float adjustment process only the left side plug was getting wet. Opened the bowls again, and they were a little over 3/4 full or so in each bowl- seemed to be enough?
Hooked the battery to charger to make sure that wasn't low volts/amps- fully charged.
Its got me baffled at the moment. Would think that the starter fluid would at least get it to pop a bit even if no fuel. Its just not doing anything....
I got one hell of a workout on my right leg in that last 3 day's :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:59 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 8:07 pm
Posts: 1759
Location: houston texas
H~one.5 wrote:
two-stroke-brit wrote:
have you checked the timming ?
cos you say you have spark ,gas,and compression.
its probably something simple you have overlooked.
are the plugs getting wet/gas ?
you had a tough run of breakages there. :banghead
keep the faith you will get it.
cheers mark


It could be the timing, but I didn't change anything on that end....other than the bolt that holds the signal rotor on.
I pulled all the plugs on the last go around and noticed the right side plug was firing intermittently? At one point didn't spark at all....so I changed that plug, swapped out the rotor,


when you swapped out the rotor did you check that it is a H1 not h2 rotor .same key possition as you used before as this would alter the timming.
as you said with the starter fluid i would expect at least a pop or two. which sounds more like timming again.
not dissing you just trying to help.
cheers mark

_________________
she will never be pretty but she is a fun ride.

73 KAWASAKI H1 (Sold).
82 YAMAHA RD350LC
2000 KAWI KDX200H
2001 Triumph TT600


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 5:43 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:06 pm
Posts: 134
Location: Houston, TX
Mark....glad to have any ideas ideas/or thoughts. Appreciate it.
The rotor was off my other H1A- its practically new. Its H1 for sure.
I'm going to check everything all over again when i get a chance Tues or Wed....spark, compression, fuel, timing.
Will kick with my Left leg this time to even out the workout :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 6:38 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:00 am
Posts: 1010
Location: Southern Ontario, Canada
Everyone seems to have iggy issues with the H1A these days!! :(

OK, Be sure the distributor rotor's mark falls between the case marks with the RH cylinder at TDC.

Check to see the coil lead is firmly seated in the internal "spike". Be sure this is completely sealed and there are no cracks in the coil tower.

Check to see the primary windings of the coil (across the two terminals with wires disconnected) is approx 3 ohms. Someone else recently had a bad coil. A 12 volt car coil is acceptable provided the primary resistance is 3 ohms or greater.

Unplug the dual connector at the A box and measure the resistance of the pickup coil/wiring across this connector. The value should be about 305 ohms. The dual connector often gives trouble too.

Set the LH cylinder to 3.45mm BTDC and align the mark on the trigger rotor with the line on the pickup. Set the bendable pointer to align with its adjacent rotor prong at this time too (you need this for strobe checking later).

Are you sure you have the correct spark plug wires connected to their associated cylinder? Confirm from the markings on the cap to spark plug end.

J


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