Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I searched web some before I wrote this post for advice.

This is PIA! BullSh#! nightmare .

All cylinders came off but the right one. Three of the studs I can now rock side to side and shove a hard thin wire along the side of stud and feels like wire goes all the way down to top case. At least I have a few holes poke in the Fe/Al Oxide crude and soaking those 3 studs in PB Blaster for tonight.

The 4th stud I can't rock it enough yet the get a hard thin wire behind like the other three. seams plugged 360 degrees and to the bottom. With three relatively loose still can't move cylinder yet. Patients!

Very surprised for no real signs of moisture. Is it typically just these studs that get stuck to cylinder I hope? Water must have seeped behind the bolt head over the years. seams like same issue as the early Suz GT750 before they put rubber seal on bolt to keep out water.

Any one have something like this (bolt in a bolt) pre-made or for sale?

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/kawasak ... t1227.html.

Wouldn't be too hard to tap/thread Al cylinder holes and then this seems like a good puller. Best to have all four in place.

I was wondering about poring Metal Rescue or Evapo-Rust down the hole in cyl around stud(s). Wash out with soap and water first to remove oil, blow out well with air , pore some in, and soak for 12- 24 hrs. Maybe if will eat the Fe Oxide... Leave it too long just make more rust. pore it out and heat it up ...dry gas, air to remove all moisture if no go.

Fun Stuff

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Bikes I drive/own

Kawasaki
1973 H1-D (New Project)
Suzuki
1974 GT250 (T350 upgrade)
1976 GT250 (T350 upgrade)
1971 T350
1970 T350 (New Project)
1974 GT380
1975 T500
1973 GT550
1975 GT750
Yamaha
1972 DS7 (R5 upgrade)
1977 RD400

You can do the research, but more has been posted on this issue than just about anything........ (except maybe what oil to use!!!)

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

Still think this is the way to go ->

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOS12z3rjJ0

Metal Rescue, EvapoRust kind of new so not sure anyone tried. Seam like it would be a miracle if it did work. Nothing will work that for down.... poking holes with wire may help after a few months


My first Kawasaki so thinking some guys have done a few more than I have. My guess it is kind of common?

Possibly just a nightmare I need to work out. At least there are a lot of spare cyls around (NOT) if I loose my patients

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Bikes I drive/own

Kawasaki
1973 H1-D (New Project)
Suzuki
1974 GT250 (T350 upgrade)
1976 GT250 (T350 upgrade)
1971 T350
1970 T350 (New Project)
1974 GT380
1975 T500
1973 GT550
1975 GT750
Yamaha
1972 DS7 (R5 upgrade)
1977 RD400

http://www.kawatriple.com/?fbclid=IwAR2 ... 3EvQp7mTf4
You need to see this, (it's right here!) And you can search this Forum, and the various F.B. Triples forums. There is a wealth of information out there on this specific issue. It is an easy way to destroy cylinders, (and cases!) if you get tit wrong.

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

I have been to that site a lot. ... Looks like I have more yet to see. If have much time searching... should be sticky... if someone has their favorite method send me that link directly. No, I sure don't want to ruin cyl or cases. Best I have seen so far is what I sent for link before: treading hole and using bolt as cyl puller against studs coming out of case. No secret penetrating sauces seem to work.
No rush, keep looking/searching around some more

_________________
Bikes I drive/own

Kawasaki
1973 H1-D (New Project)
Suzuki
1974 GT250 (T350 upgrade)
1976 GT250 (T350 upgrade)
1971 T350
1970 T350 (New Project)
1974 GT380
1975 T500
1973 GT550
1975 GT750
Yamaha
1972 DS7 (R5 upgrade)
1977 RD400

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Thanks!

a. Secret Sauces (e.g ATF/Acetone) and heat followed good beating in places that leave no marks. sounds like my childhood

I looked at YouTube for best rust removers.... I also think those modern liquid like Evapo Rust or Metal Rescue may work.... but oil soaked may block it now. Has to be more rust than Al oxide

b. Thread holes and use bolts as puller (not sure why that's harder, don't see how it really ruins cylinder either as TomTips states ?). I would do all 4 holes. Funny to see at the bottom of threading holes article it has "Flash Tap Out ... rust remover ...does it work... secret sauce back then..

c. The third method is a fabricated puller mechanism with prongs protruding into Ex and Intake and air hammer down studs.... Wow!



I was thinking if I had a long thin pick with a thin handle keep circling around stud remove crud a bit at a time between cyl. There is a gap there albeit plugged. I have a long stiff wire but need three hands and better eyes and too thin up top to apply side way torque. Stab only... working but slow.

Well I will take my time with special sauces and then may shift to threading the hole.

The hole is 13mm I think. I measure 0.509". this just about correct for 9/16-18 tap... thin thread depth may strip easy?
The article says 5/8- but not sure if fine or coarse thread. It looks coarse. Different recommend drill size NC vs NF.
The other youtuber I Posted used 16mm 2.00 mm.

some numbers

9/16 -18 NF Tap, make hole 33/64" = 0.516" = 0.023" thread depth.
5/8 - 11 NC Tap, make hole 17/32" = 0.531" = 0.047" thread depth.
16mm 2.00 mm coarse Tap, make hole 14.2mm~35/64 = 0.547" = 0.041" thread depth.
16mm x 1.5mm Tap, make hole 14.7mm = 0.578" = 0.026" thread depth.
5/8 - 18 NF Tap, make hole 37/64" = 0.578" = 0.024" thread depth.

It just aluminum so either would work even if it has to drill a little extra as it threads, accept maybe the 5/8-18 or 16mm x 1.5mm

NC vs NF ~ twice thread depth
But fine has more area to spread torque... hmm

https://resources.tannerbolt.com/articl ... 0materials.

Thinking coarse for a puller...less force maybe, but more durable with use

Need something else to think about

_________________
Bikes I drive/own

Kawasaki
1973 H1-D (New Project)
Suzuki
1974 GT250 (T350 upgrade)
1976 GT250 (T350 upgrade)
1971 T350
1970 T350 (New Project)
1974 GT380
1975 T500
1973 GT550
1975 GT750
Yamaha
1972 DS7 (R5 upgrade)
1977 RD400

Ended up having to cut cylinder

I tried to use the 9/16 -18 four bolt pulling method. Three step Threading process (Taper, Plug, Bottoming).

As sated before really one of the 4 studs were stuck to cylinder. So three side raised very decently, but one would not budge. Turn bolt same, tap head of bolt with hammer. Turn bolt little more and tap with hammer. It felt like it was moving! but the cylinder at the base would not budge. What was happening (other wired stuff also happening) was that the stud was deforming inside, twisting, fattening, kinking. It was very stuck

I cut down the side of the cyl with a saws-all to expose the one stuck stud length wise. I took port bits to and carefully exposed about 1/4 the area of the fused stud. You could see rust fused all the way down and 360 degree. no penetrating oils (tried a few) were working .

I had to drill horizontally around stud, making many holes to get about 70% of stud exposed then it freed finally; couple hours at least. N case damage! The stud was wasted and got that one out of case. The other three I re-threaded and straightened from puller bolts. Will change all four.

I don't thing the puller jig from engine mounting points into intake and Ex ports would worked for me just one corner was stuck and would have angled side ways it did with puller bolts method and concerned about ruining engine case surface getting ruined. Also, looking at motor mounts they seam pretty fragile and did not want to mess up engine case. The puller bolts caused the cylinder aluminum to mound up and that would need to milled down for head to mount properly again, if I could have gotten it off. I was concerned that the level of distortion from such stressed would cause issues later.

So luckily a person on eBay had the correct part# took my 20% less offer on a NOS cylinder. Still a lot of coin.

thanks

_________________
Bikes I drive/own

Kawasaki
1973 H1-D (New Project)
Suzuki
1974 GT250 (T350 upgrade)
1976 GT250 (T350 upgrade)
1971 T350
1970 T350 (New Project)
1974 GT380
1975 T500
1973 GT550
1975 GT750
Yamaha
1972 DS7 (R5 upgrade)
1977 RD400

Wow. Well at least you did what it needed and are making progress.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I am a great one for building my own tools, fanatic about it, but, not many have the tooling/machinery resources to do so.

To help this situation, I used my lathe to fab up a tube, one with a bar insert on the top, two cutting edges on its bottom, fits over the stud, and inside the stud bore on the cylinder. tool goes down into the hole, hand turned, cuts the crud away, makes pulling the cylinder off a lot easier, IF the sleeve in the cases isn't rusted/corroded in place.

Lot of ways to get this done, this is only none home made one of them.