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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 12:43 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
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We always found the riders liked both the brakes, and the way the forks worked better with the calipers in the rear positioning on the race bikes, and I found the same on my own street bikes as well.

We also found that the rear disk caliper worked far better in the 6:00 position, not at 12:00, and the caliper torque rod connected to the frame, and so it could swivel, over the bar mounted to the swing arm.

Just our preference.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 11:13 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
That's the nice part about updated brakes being available. You get fantastic stopping power without all the weight of dual discs/calipers and all the detrimental added poundage of yesteryear. :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 2:14 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
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Weight has always been an adverse issue in brakes, especially the weight of the disk in being able to be clamped stopped. Also, it goes to unsprung weight on the front end to try to manage, more weight, less ability to handle the front end. So, now, we have had steel, aluminum carbon and other brake disk media, soe work, most don't work well.

In the early days, light weight brake disks really didn't exist, there was only one person doing anything with light disks, Harry Hunt did a flame sprayed coating to an aluminum disk, for Yamaha only. We tried all sorts of aluminum special cutting disks, with anodizing, another process called "Banodizing", name it, nothing worked well.

We, Steve and I, ended up doing something we should have got the rights to, we'd both be rich now from it. About this very time in 1972, we started to mimic the 1965 Porsche Can-Am car disk treatments, we drilled, in secrecy, 72, 1/2 inch holes in two stock street bike H2 disks, creating "Holy Disks". I have been told there are hundreds of reasons we drilled them. H2R's used stock street bike H2 brake disks on the front ends.

The ONLY reason was, the street bike disks weighed like 3 - 1/2 pounds each, and drilling them lost roughly 1/2 their WEIGHT. Consider that on the rear wheel, the factory did a large diameter, 10 - 1/2 inch steel disk, that actually weighed more than the Triumph TR4 car 8 inch diameter front disk we drilled and used instead.

Today, brakes and components are so very much better, those shown here are just plain NICE. But, my preference is much like the OP, I am a two, to single finger front brake puller, and, twin disks, set up with as much caliper piston area as I can find, is the way I am used to, and like.

To each, their own.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 5:34 pm
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Location: Front Royal, VA
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After further consultation with M in SC and some back to back rides on the RD and RZ I ordered and received a 12MM master cylinder in an effort to get a little more feel. $20 shipped from an ebay vendor named fancy scooters and it even has an electrical brake lite switch just like the 14 MM R1 master cylinder currently installed so it should be plug and play. I hope to get it installed and bled tomorrow morning after I feed my Baby Mommas before work and hopefully a short test ride.

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Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 12:17 am 
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Location: North Central NC
That's what I have on my H2's single disk with EX caliper I think, Tim. It works great and came with a rebuild kit. I have another one on the DT100, same caliper.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 3:48 pm 
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On and bled in 15 minutes. About 3 pumps after this picture it burped all the air out. Went for a test ride and now we are talking 1 finger braking, 2 if you have to stop quick. The feel is perfect now. Thanks again to M in SC

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Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
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Stay in it when it comes on the pipe, no need to be scared...


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 4:05 pm 
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Done and done :D :D

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Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
Home of the Phoenix Project
Stay in it when it comes on the pipe, no need to be scared...


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