Yup, "each to his own", but, some just aren't the right way.
The procedure I outlined is a universal procedure, the way EVERY manufacturer sets their swing arms up. The center pieces in the "stack" inside the bushings, is a SOLID entity, sets the distance between inner frame bosses for the swing arm, and if that distance is not right, the frame binds the swing arm up.
Then, there is expansion in both the frame AND swing arm pivot areas, both NOT being the same expansion, from the heat of the engine and exhaust system being radiated onto both the frame in the pivot area, and the swing arm, and other factors, so, please, don't tell me I am stupid in setting swing arm sag up, I have done it the right way for 5 full decades now, with not one binding when at full temperature. Cold setting doesn't get it done, doesn't mean Jack Diddly.
There is NO reason to back the bolt stretch (oh, yeah, you know it as nut torque) off, as that would compromise the strength of the stack to hold the frame at the correct width distance for free swing arm function. "Backing the nut off" just ain't the right way to attain correct swing arm sag, nor fit.
Also, the swing arm distance clearance is NOT set with the nut torque, it is set between both cupped washers, between the stack, and bushing lengths, with the center spacer and both bushing inner races, as opposed to the distance of the swing arm bushing end thrust faces.
EDIT: One procedure I omitted in the swing arm papers was that the "stack" needs to be set and checked, in the frame, WITHOUT the two O rings placed in the cup washers. Set the end play up with the swing arm off the bike, pivot shaft in place, then, remove the pivot shaft, install the swing arm, pivot bolt, nut, torque, and check for free swing arm sag. when confirmed, and no further shimming is needed on the STACK, remove the swing arm, install both O rings with a good grade of waterproof boat trailer grease, and put the whole mess back in, torque the nut, done.
Doing it any other way is NOT the way Kawasaki, and other manufacturers intended for how to do it right. Please remember, the manuals were written in Japan, in early motorcycle pidgeon English, NOT today's real world English language.
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