H2RTuner wrote:
I was, at one time, a certified BMW tech. Those bikes have a couple of very minor issues.
Rocker arm stands are not doweled to the heads, so they can be set too far apart, and when the npush rod moves the rocker, it has to "lift into the holder" at the top of the head, which makes a sound like the valves are loose. the stands are held in place by the head studs, and what we did to tighten them up was literally use a flat punch to "whack" them into a tighter rocker arm hold. Once done, the valve train stays quiet for quite a while. this will be the cause if the valves are still "clacky" after setting their clearances.
For the point type ignitions, ine set of points runs both cylinders, two lobe point cam. Test the tming by looking at both sides timing separately. IF the timing is on for one side, but way off for the other, literally lightly whack the stud that holds the advance mechanism until they both read same. YES< that is what the procedure was, as outlined by Butler and Smith, the distributor eons ago.
Balance of carbs is essential, MUST be by manometer, gauges will not be accurate. Two adjustments, idle screw stops, cables for off idle.
The primary pipes either blue, or burned color IS NORMAL for those engines.
20W-50 oil is best for engine, 75W-90 gear oil for transmission, rear gear set. If you can find a dropped oil pan for the engine, it'll add 1 - 1/2 quarts of engine oil, a very good deal to do.
Those bikes are darned near totally bulletproof, they do just about everything wight very few, if any things badly.
Thanks, greatly appreciated. Looks like I will move forward on seeing what kind of deal he wants to do. Too bad he doesn't want to trade towards the '93 ZR1100 as he purchased brand new.
Thanks again
Jeff