Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I'm about to set the ignition timing. Mine is a 1970 Euro with points ignition - pretty much the same as a H1B.
I'm going with a dial gauge and a buzzer. When the points are about to open, the sound from buzzer will change and some light diodes also indicates that the resistance is increasing.

But no matter what I do, I always have electrical connection going through the points. Even if stick a piece of rubber btw. the points, see pic below.


I have compared my unit with a pic of a NOS unit for sale on Ebay. Looks the same. I have checked that the moving arm of the points doesn't touch anything, but of course the spring is attached to the plates.
What have I done wrong ?


Wires from points to the coils: There are of course 3 wires green - blue/white and black. But on the wiring diagram there no indication of + and - on the coils:


I can't figure out if it makes any difference how they are connected on the coil

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Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992

You should try setting the points by battery voltage and see what happens.

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74 H2B with reeds and 34mm carbs
75 S3A Ram Air with reeds and 30mm carbs
73 S2A (wife's bike)
71 Yammi RT1B
83 HD Sportster
03 Yammi R1
06 Kaw 750 Vulcan (wife’s bike)
12 Yammi vstar 250 (wife’s bike)

The points, key on, will always have battery voltage present on the movable contact. The fixed contact is earth and when the points close it produces a field in the coil. Connect your buzzer across the point contacts... buzzer will sound when the points open or bulb will light.
http://www.kawatriple.com/pointstiming.htm

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Thanks, will try again with battery on
What about wires from points to coils ? Do they connect to + or - on the specific coil?

_________________
Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992

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Always remember, there will be greater and lesser people than yourself . . . you can learn from either!

Battery/ign sw = "+"
Points = "-"

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Thanks Rick - I've cleaned it
Your'e rigth about the grease pads - new ones are deliberately not mounted yet.

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Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992

Thanks to usernameandpaswword and mraxl - it did help, turning the ignition on !
But I've been thinking like a maniac about WHY !

Anyway - the sound of the buzzer made me insane, and I did'nt like the thought of leaving the coils with power on for long time, and it sure did take looong time!

So I ended up making a small test lamp, powered by a 9V battery.
The points ignition is a pig to set up. I've spent like 10 hours, but of course all parts have been split, so I had no starting point or reference. Next adjustment will hopefully be easier

You have to be very patient. Almost as soon as you have tightened a screw the setting will have drifted a little bit.
I remember some of my mates, always messing with their bikes. And what happens when the sun is shinning and all you want is to go for a ride now. No wonder many of these engines blew up.

I could of course convert to CDI, and I might do in the future, but my aim was to have the original system up 'n running. Which I did - whit some good help from this http://www.kawatriple.com/pointstiming.htm

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Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992

I usually set my S3 with a multimeter and key on first, then throw a light on it to true the timing up. You can turn the key on to set one set, turn it off and then situate yourself for the next set, and the key won't be on the whole time. The points systems on these bikes is very reliable if you keep the grease pad damp.

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74 H2B with reeds and 34mm carbs
75 S3A Ram Air with reeds and 30mm carbs
73 S2A (wife's bike)
71 Yammi RT1B
83 HD Sportster
03 Yammi R1
06 Kaw 750 Vulcan (wife’s bike)
12 Yammi vstar 250 (wife’s bike)

I have ZERO experience with triple points. I have only owned H2s. But at the risk of sounding like a fool, what would happen if you disconnect the wiring from the points (green and black/black and black/blue and black) and connect your continuity meter there? Then use a dial indicator on each individual cylinder. It would be crucial to get the open gap spot on first. I'm going way back to my small engine repair days. It's been a while. Or am I totally missing the whole picture here....

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