Kawi2strokes.com Forum

+1 and I prefer to fit an H2 engine on the frame than a CB 750, the CB is really heaviest

Got the wiring straightened out. All lights, blinkers, horn, and starter circuits are working. The only thing not working, and not hooked up is the signal buzzer, too annoying IMO. Pretty much just about every electrical connection is new as is the harness. There are always a few bugs to be worked out and this bike was no different. Much of the wiring connections are held in this box located on the forward frame,



Most all the wiring changes on this bike revolve around the Left Bar Control Cluster. For some reason new European Model switches are readily available, and not so the US, I guess we just crashed more on the Left side than our friends over the pond and the NOS stock got used up? The difference is the Horn/Passing switch on the Euro model. Easy enough to work around on the new harness and just required snaking a ground to the frame box and a couple of extra connections in the headlight shell, and now I also have a passing light.



I thought I could get the headlight assembled and mounted for a pic of the lights running and that's where fate stepped in, not today. I got the new headlight assembled with the new trim ring and new adjuster components, and proceeded to drop it on the floor. When shiny delicate stuff falls on the floor it doesn't just hit and stay, no, it goes for a bouncing ride around the room and then tries to hide under the bench. I should have just been happy enough for a weeknight to have all the bugs worked out of the wiring, but now I am ordering a new ring.

I know that feeling. I was cleaning the inside of a perfectly straight fuel tank, which requires some shaking, and I threw it (THREW IT!!!) right down onto the driveway. Not dent-free any more. I was pissed.



Lane

All those experiences are why resto is sooo much fun. All of us have fallen over, dropped, pitched, thrown, and done every other bone headed move while seeking resto perfection. This build, and the ones GUTS are doing, fantastic, I sure wish I was that good.

About the Honda wiring systems, who in their right mind, uses green as ground, and black for some positive circuits, only them.. Suzuki used to have a lot of screwball wiring stuff as well. Anyone that has figured out Honda wiring is a master electrical tech in my book.l

Well a big WTF? The new faces have cracked just like the last ones. The only thing I can figure is it is the Loctitie, the screws have very little pressure on them. I have used Loctite before on decal plates and never had this problem. The holes on the plates seem to have closed up around the screws, meaning the screws went right through the holes when they went on but had to screwed out of the holes when taking the plates back off? What else could it be? I am just going to send the whole shebang off to CB750faces and have them do them, and move on to other stuff.



Plan "B" was put into effect and these reproduction units I had will do until I can get the OEM meters straightened out.




Speaking of plan "B" I ended up finding a tank on Ebay and scraping the idea of painting the leaker I soldered after talking it over with The Painter. He got the tank fairly well prepped and I installed the Caswell Liner. It will go back to him Monday for paint.




The Electronic Ignition and new Coils went in too. The coils come with wires and the cylinder numbers already on them.





Clutch cable got shortened and installed for the low bars. I use the Motion Pro Kit for this and have had good luck. It has just about every cable end you could need and will most likely get used again for the throttle cables.



Also got started on the carbs and did some plating and Yellow Chromate on the linkage assembly parts. Of course after all the plating stuff was shut down I realized I forgot the Choke Levers, so they will need to get plated before the carbs can be assembled and mounted. Hopefully, that will be next weekend.

The Lock-Tite compounds do expand as they cure. At least, that is what I have seen for the last 45 years of using them.

Hope you get the facia issues resolved.

Cable ends are great, I have a solder pot as well, makes for great cable fabrication.

I also bought a set of those repop gauges, however not tried them yet.

I sent Marcel a set of K1 gauges for restoring a couple weeks back, I'm very surprised to hear of your issue again.
There is another member on the SOHC4 forum that experienced it too.

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H2B..... H1E..... Z1B ..... RD350...... X6 Hustler..... TS250.... CB750 ..... CB550...... and a Bomber!!

What make is that ignition system??

It is a Daytona brand but if you look close on the circuit board you can see, "Kokusan" I know they make ignitions for KTMs. I believe it uses "Hall Effect" sensors to replace the points. I think it also keeps the circuit open for 1/2 revolution so you don't drain the battery charging circuit like the Dyna ignition did on the 400F I did last year. The Dyna closes the circuit right after opening and the already weak charging circuit of the 400 can't keep up after awhile, especially at low RPMs.

Yeah, I figure it can go on the back burner since I have these repro gauges. The repros actually look pretty good to me.