Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Send me a drawing (you, John, whoever) and I'll get a quote from the laser shop I use. I wouldn't expect them to be over about $40 each, but you'd still need to get them turned if you want them thinner than stock.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Yes, we did try all sorts of coatings for aluminum discs, and I told of this in my now deleted post, plasma sprayed, anodized, banodized, flame sprayed cast iron, and other treatments. None worked well except the ones done by a fellow in the Bay Area, did a lot of Yamaha work, Harry Hunt. His coatings worked.

On Phillpe De Lespinay's "Garbage Can Special", (John, ask Hurley about this bike) it was built from all sorts of cast off stuff, including a one off liquid cooled top end. We ran straight 7075T6 aluminum front discs, no coatings, and Honda CB500 4 cylinder calipers and pads. All worked well, but the GCS was a light bike, and the pads were fairly soft, so, no galling of the discs. What replaced the GCS was one of Pier-Paolo Bianchi's factory Morbidelli rolling chassis with a factory suppiort 125 rotary valve twin engine. It, too had specially coated aluminum discs in the front, and Brembo calipers/pads.

Are the mounting holes for the disc in the same exact spot in relation to one of the rivits that holds the disc to the carrier, or were the mounting holes just drilled however it was layed in the machine? It wouldn't be a huge deal, but would be alot easier if you were doing 10 or more of these in a cnc mill if you only had to setup fixture for one part and then just load the others in. Personally I would also want the discs thinned before the cutouts are made, if I was doing the thinning on them. The interuped cut the cutouts would make wouldn't make the job any easier.

I just looked at three H2 disks, and they all appear to be the same, with three rivets lining up with three bolt holes, but I didn't measure to see how accurate that is.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Hey Jim,
Why even use the stock rotor?
What if it was laser cut part from chrome moly (or other steel alloy) sheet stock?
Thinner, light, strong, easy to ship, and up to the end user to remove the rivets and re-attach with grade 8 hardware.

Dave, I've owned a flame spray machine and had my old shop treat an area of 400 aluminum cabinets (some with steel, some nickel, and some zinc) for a DoD job. It was a miserable process that was time consuming and inconsistent; meaning re0qrok to meet mil spec. Other than building up crankshaft journals I have little use for the tool and technology.

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There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

I'm wondering if they are cut from sheet stock there might be a problem with grain structure causing warping issues? Not saying there is, just throwing it out there... I'm only guessing the the original disks were made from forgings, I could be wrong there as well!

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http://kawatriple.com/wtf/

my thoughts are this: the partial cut pocket here i think could be left....



and get a bot more creative with the outside cut. cut deeper, radius it and will give nd effect like a wave rotor witch will allow for better cooling and the 'wiping' effect a drilled disc has on the pad.



eASY TO DO AT A LASER/WJ SHOP. just a thought.

LUV it.

Would this reduction of friction area cause a noticeable loss in braking performance?

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There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

nope.

as the 'wave' rides by the pad it gets the same grip. its basically a drilled rotor to the extreme.
if you had ever ridden a bike equipped w/them you'd know. they work fantastic.
don't get me wrong, i love johns idea and im not criticizing it, just suggesting.