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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 5:14 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:44 am
Posts: 1159
Location: Bangor, PA
I cross posted this from the service section since I only have a few sets of the adapters left and no plans to run another batch off.

I made up some adapters to run racetech emulator clones available through MikesXs on my bike. These are a much cheaper alternative to RaceTech. I ran a few extra sets off and I am offering the adapters and the mods to your fork rods as a package. These adapters are setup for the MikesXs valves only and the mods are for the h1/h2 STEEL rods only. I can't do any mods to the aluminum rods and can not guarantee the adapters will fit with them. Here is a link to the emulators https://www.mikesxs.net/product/27-1086.html And here is what you will get from me:

Stock fork rod

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I then drill additional compression holes in the bottom of the rods

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The stock rebound hole shut welded shut and re-drill it to 1.57mm. I can also drill the hole to your spec or leave it stock if you like.

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Here are the adapters, they replace the stock rod top and are secured with dog point set screws instead of the roll pin. This is for better flow to the emulator. The adapters are also featuring an anodized finish on them.

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Here are the finished rods and also shown with the emulators sitting on top(emulators are not included).

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The cost for this is $80 for both rods plus return shipping. I will need your rods sent to me stripped down like in the first picture and cleaned/degreased as best as possible. There is also a seal for the piston( piece under the stock rod top) that needs to be removed. It is already removed in the first picture. They will be returned to you ready to go looking like the 2nd to last picture. Paypal is ok but you need to add 3% if not sent as a gift. You can also add in the same shipping amount that it took to send the rods to me for the return shipping. Cash or USPS money order sent in the box with the rods is also ok.

I also have the adapters available separately if you would choose to do the modifications to the rods yourself. The cost for the adapters only is $40 shipped and will also include the needed set screws to attach them and a tap for the set screws. You will need to drill and tap the adapters for the set screws, they can be matched to the original roll pin holes in the rod like I do or new holes drilled.

Here is a little bit of info on emulator installation in general. First off, the installation procedure and picture on the resource site is not correct whether you are using the racetech brand or the clones. The top of the rod needs to be opened up so oil can flow through it and through the emulator. They do not work if oil is not flowing though it. You can machine the top of the stock rod top off and use an adapter like race tech does or replace it entirely with a new top like I did. If you are planning on running emulators you will need some machine work done or some very careful sanding/filing.

You also do not need to weld or close holes shut on the bottom compression holes. The holes on the bottom of the rod serve no purpose with the emulators other than a port to let the oil through and up to the emulator. This is why additional holes are drilled, to give more surface area for the oil to flow freely.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 7:54 pm 

Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 6:06 pm
Posts: 1135
Location: Honolulu
Interesting, I think I have a set of rods I can send you. I need to look around.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 10:33 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 615
Location: Indianapolis, IN
How much preload did you end up using on the emulator springs? MikesXS says start with 2 turns for the XS650, I have them set on my H2 with 2 turns as well but have not ridden it yet, weather etc here.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 1:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2011 10:19 am
Posts: 191
Location: Wellington, Fl
Is there any way to know which you have, steel or aluminum without dissembling the forks?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:47 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 615
Location: Indianapolis, IN
soflah2b wrote:
Is there any way to know which you have, steel or aluminum without dissembling the forks?

My H2B had steel damping rods, if that helps.

_________________
1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 10:21 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:44 am
Posts: 1159
Location: Bangor, PA
soflah2b wrote:
Is there any way to know which you have, steel or aluminum without dissembling the forks?


Just a guess and hopefully someone with more knowledge than me chimes in but I think all H2’s and the late H1’s should have steel rods.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:19 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:44 am
Posts: 1159
Location: Bangor, PA
I have one set of these left that is not spoken for.


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