Kawi2strokes.com Forum

A good buddy of mine is searching for a crank rebuilding jig for kawie triples. If it is being done successfully without one that is interesting to hear also. Thanks

I seriously doubt that one was ever commercialy available other than perhaps a handful of factory units
I respectfully suggest that if one is truly able to rebuild a crank properly (run out, phasing, twist, etc) then it would be a fixture that he would build on his own

Damon did my crank years ago and I don't beleive that he did any more than replacing rods, bearings, seals and then straighten for run out

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There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

The tools are available cause back in the 80's triple crank rebuilds at local machine shops were nothing special just another job, not sure what was used but probably a jig, dial indicators, a nice slow press, a brass hammer, some patients and experience would sure help. probably easiest to just send it to a pro kawi triples guy and benefit from there knowledge

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1975 S3 project bike
1974 H1 project bike
1972 Yamaha R5
1974 Yamaha RD350

It's not for me, I have no interest in doing mine myself or re-inventing the wheel. My friend is looking for one because he has everything else.

Hmmmm, from years of being a factory Kawasaki crank rebuilder station, I will just add that, that AIN'T the way to "chuck" the ends up to get the crank straight.

If you look behind the two tapers holding the axles, there are two knife edge ball bearings on each end of the fixture. Each axle should be supported on these bearing sets, with TWO checked for same accuracy dial indicators on the read bar. The rollers should hold the crank about 20/25 mm's out from each flyweel, and both dial indicators should read just to the side of each fillit radius on each flywheel, on the bearing shaft surface.

That is the only way to read this particular crank true correctly.

Different methods, virtually the same, work for center and outer alignment on twins and triples, and, inline pr4ssed together 4 stroke multi cylinder cranks, like the factory spun GPZ1100 of the early 1980's I fixed in droves.

If you disagree, fine, but, the method I use allows me to get the true dead on, every time, without the possibility of worn out/distorted end taper bores, nor bent thread ends of the shafts.

Its just a pic not a triples crank pic, back in the 80's there were several local shops that did triple cranks the tools were available somewhere.

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1975 S3 project bike
1974 H1 project bike
1972 Yamaha R5
1974 Yamaha RD350

You can check run out in a non-running lathe
Phasing is another matter

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There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

I just went out and took a couple of pics of the fixture I use, along with an old Honda crank I had laying around in it. This is an early 1970's Ed Rowe Products truing stand that I use on everything I have ever done.

saw, there were factory crank alignment press fixtures that came to crank rebuilding stations, to make sure the pins got pressed into the flywheels straight and true, but, I don't hink they are available any longer, and if I need one, for whatever crank, I just go make my own on the lathe and mill.

Here is page 14 from Kawasaki's crank rebuild manual:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/399336/Pictures/Posted/Page%2014%20from%20Kawasaki%20Crankshaft%20Manual.pdf

PK

Dale, thanks for adding the pics for me.

PK, I, maybe other, can't read the link when it comes up, just a black blank page. Probably only my computer, but, might be others as well.