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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2019 5:07 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:03 am
Posts: 4604
Location: Milang, South Australia
Zambia wrote:
Jim wrote:
Tim Steele wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Kawasaki-H2-750-Complete-Oil-Injection-Pump-Banjo-All/254363785167?hash=item3b394357cf:g:tBwAAOSwm0ldgrYf


Good link, good price, but it seems pretty dumb to just cut the oil lines!


It's not always easy to find your 8mm socket when you need it.. :lol:

It's right there, next to the 10mmm...……………….oh, wait!

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2019 8:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:56 pm
Posts: 449
Location: New Hampshire
Hawaii-Mike wrote:
JayDav wrote:
Hawaii-Mike wrote:


Monkey Claw...just saying :shock:

Mach 4 Motors



And now at over $156 as the auction nears its end.....the king of shill bidding :e9


Last edited by JayDav on Sat Sep 21, 2019 8:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2019 6:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 27, 2013 9:30 am
Posts: 205
Location: SE Tennessee
Well guys I ended up buying the pair of 500 pumps per Tim’s advice. When I get stuck into a job I tend to buy what I need when I need it and don’t shop around too awfully much. Maybe its a guy thing? Anyway, I look to see what’s available at the time and buy from there. And I’ve been known to spend too much $$ on a bike if it is for myself and I plan on keeping it.

This is how I eventually wind up with enough extra stuff to build a second bike at some point! The two oil pumps buy turned out to be what I needed because they came with all of the oil lines and fittings including the oil tank supply line. Anybody need any spares?

I have everything on the bike and hooked up although it looks like I need a new oil tank outlet/filter because mine is cracked. Kinda pricey but I’m grateful they are available. I glued it and it seems to be holding up but I doubt long term. I ran the bike this morning and bled up the oil lines. Everything seems good and I adjusted the pump cable as per H2Rtuner’s advice. Progress! Now I just have to pick up the new paintwork and install it.

Mark

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2019 7:36 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3146
Just more info.

One year, Hurley rode the Australian Castrol 6 hour race with a couple of Australians, and, the bike had to be "stock". With stock, that means the oil tank filler as well. So, that means get off the bike, open the seat, unscrew the tank filler, pour the oil in, reverse the process, half a lap in the pits filling, oil tank is OK again.

The simple fix is what we did, fit an S series oil pump, with the H2 wheel. The bike went the complete race on just at 7/8ths tank of oil, NO PREMIX. No performance issues.

On the H1 pump, the guts are just about the same as an H2, and the cams and ramps are interchangeable with each other, so H2 parts fit inside the H1 bodies, and vice-versa. It might also be a prudent thing to go to the Resources Pages and look at the H series oil pump end cap bulletin on the crush on the end cap sealing ring, and output revisions. Are these pumps the revised ones, or early ones? NOT hard to machine an early longer end cap to the revised distance, and that should be done if the pump doesn't have the later end dimensions. This is simply to put more crush on the sealing ring, so the pump doesn't leak, nor ingest air for the one cylinder oil line.

If the H1 pump is used on the H2 as is, I'd suggest setting it a bit richer than the last dot, and working it down as you go, SLOWLY.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2019 9:08 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 5:34 pm
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Location: Front Royal, VA
https://jessbikes.com/product_info.php? ... f8d257eea1

New repro cap

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2019 9:14 pm 
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Location: Front Royal, VA
My pump is off a 71 H1 if memory serves. All I did was hook up the feed line and spin it up with a 9/32 12 point socket on my drill and held it wide open. Oil came up in all holes and I bolted it on.

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Stay in it when it comes on the pipe, no need to be scared...


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2019 1:57 am 

Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 6:06 pm
Posts: 1137
Location: Honolulu
H2RTuner wrote:
Just more info.
The simple fix is what we did, fit an S series oil pump, with the H2 wheel. The bike went the complete race on just at 7/8ths tank of oil, NO PREMIX. No performance issues.

Wow interesting, I didn't know an S series pump will bolt up to an H2 or H1. Nice tip!


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2019 8:23 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:26 pm
Posts: 901
Location: Zionsville,PA
Hawaii-Mike wrote:
H2RTuner wrote:
Just more info.
The simple fix is what we did, fit an S series oil pump, with the H2 wheel. The bike went the complete race on just at 7/8ths tank of oil, NO PREMIX. No performance issues.

Wow interesting, I didn't know an S series pump will bolt up to an H2 or H1. Nice tip!


The cam rotation is different ( possibly a difference in the cam profile, I don't know)

Jeff

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2019 9:52 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9840
Location: North Central NC
JRD wrote:
The cam rotation is different ( possibly a difference in the cam profile, I don't know)


I believe the cam is symmetrical, so it doesn't matter which way you turn it.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2019 11:14 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3146
Jim is correct, the wheel sets the start positioning to the piston, left of center, or right of center, and the stroke volume.

Please stop trying to make me out as some sort of liar, it doesn't sit well with me at all. I was there, you weren't.


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