Kawi2strokes.com Forum

For the price of the Z1 version, without hesitation I'd buy the hydraulic slave cylinder from Ned on the Canadian board, along with a Magura 9.5mm master cylinder, and have a far superior system.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

It's Ralf's that has gotten rave reviews. Good enough for even me to get one. There are videos of comparisons on you tube.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

I would have to agree, did similar setup on my H2 years ago. No more broken clutch cables, lighter pull with smoother action.

And how's it work? Have you ever tried the Sytec?

Here's a comparison of some of the releases discussed here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ygmiJR22vU

Don

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Don

The sytec didn't work well even after I did the 10 mm pivot change.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Seems like the Ralf's one is short of travel, would be a nice light lever feel, but does the clutch clear ok?

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.

You have 2 options with the aftermarket actuators, no reduced/ or greater leverare with the steep thread, or lighter action with less throw. There are many positive responses on Ralf's actuator on Facebook.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

The amount of travel per degree of rotation varies between releases as does leverage:
4 spline - .450" per 90 deg
6 spline - .430" per 90 deg
Ball Bearing - .380" per 90 deg
Aftermarket Releases:
Tony Nicosia - .410" per 90 deg
Ralf Gille- .240" per 90 deg

http://kawatriple.com/partid/clutch/clrelease.htm

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Thanks for the input guys.
So, where am I at?
Well;
1) the good condition NOS ones are $350! Too much for a 45 yr. +/- new part. I made a counter-offer of $250 to each, with no success. These guys KNOW they've got you over a barrel.
2) There's a used one for $235, arguably in equal condition to the NOS pieces, but the pictures show the retaining tabs on the bottom of the metal bearing sleeve have been bent up, presumably to disassemble the piece. My concern would be the metal fatigue of bending the tabs back to original position, and one or more weakening and breaking.
3) The used one for $200 has a bad cable pull tab, as seen in the pictures. Should be VERY easy to fix.
4) The Japanese repro. for $135-$190, depending on site.
5) Ralf Gille's repro. Arguably the best choice.
Problem is, I still would prefer a good, no issue used piece for $150-$200, or a NOS piece for $200-$300.
Guess I'm gonna HAVE to get with the "Gotta pay to play" theory. LOL
Kinda hard process for a paycheck-to-paycheck po-boy.
I can't express my appreciation for everybody's input. Usually hard to come by for "New guy".

Do NOT buy a stock one, even a NOS one, and for those prices, why? The aftermarket ones are a huge improvement over the stock nylon types. I have a Tony Nicosia type aftermarket one, from Z1parts.com I think.... It was good to start and after it seemed to bed itself in got even better. Many here like the Ralf's one, seems to me to be short on travel, but they say it's fine.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.