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| Kawasaki h1 distributor cap http://www.kawi2strokes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=13186 |
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| Author: | 2strokejamoke [ Sun Dec 10, 2017 8:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Kawasaki h1 distributor cap |
Well I know how to find out! I'll keep you guys posted on what I find, thanks! |
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| Author: | Jim [ Sun Dec 10, 2017 9:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Kawasaki h1 distributor cap |
Agreed. I have heard of carefully hand filing a new keyway though. But as I said, I'm not sure if that's a problem in this case or not. |
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| Author: | JRD [ Sun Dec 10, 2017 10:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Kawasaki h1 distributor cap |
Jim wrote: There may be a problem with the orientation of the keyway on the alternator end of the crank, but I'm not sure. Here's picture of the 73 H1D set up. I marked the keyway position with a black marker. Attachment: DCP_3601.jpg
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| Author: | Brian H. [ Mon Dec 25, 2017 2:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Kawasaki h1 distributor cap |
H2RTuner wrote: H1D and H2 do reference the magneto rotor in different positions. Memory doesn't serve me, possibly, both rotor and crank stub key ways differ. I have heard of people installing both rotors, without the key, phasing them, and using the bolt to lock them down, but, I wouldn't do that. I'd do a key way, too easy to spin rotors on the crank stub without the key. Might be easier to drill a new pin hole in the mag rotor (if trying to use H1 mag rotor on H2 or vise-versa) for the pick-up rotor rather than cut a new keyway in the mag rotor. |
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| Author: | Jim [ Mon Dec 25, 2017 2:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Kawasaki h1 distributor cap |
Brian, I'm not sure the phasing of the magnetic field would be OK that way. It may be, but it would need to be checked. |
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| Author: | Brian H. [ Mon Dec 25, 2017 2:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Kawasaki h1 distributor cap |
Jim wrote: Brian, I'm not sure the phasing of the magnetic field would be OK that way. It may be, but it would need to be checked. Done it. Ran fine. H1 rotor on H2 with re-drilled pin hole for pick-up rotor. |
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| Author: | Ja-Moo [ Mon Dec 25, 2017 2:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Kawasaki h1 distributor cap |
That's interesting, as I literally fought for 2 weeks trying to get my 500 to start with a redrilled pin locator. I then cut in a new keyway, and everything was good. |
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| Author: | Jim [ Mon Dec 25, 2017 3:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Kawasaki h1 distributor cap |
One of you guys had an H1 rotor work OK on an H2, and the other had an H2 rotor fail to work on an H1. As a wild guess, I'd say it's possible that Brian's working H2 may not quite have had full magneto voltage output to the three CDI units. I know that an H2 alternator won't produce spark if it's turning backwards, because the positive output pulses occur at the wrong time for charging the CDI units' capacitors. |
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| Author: | H2RTuner [ Mon Dec 25, 2017 5:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Kawasaki h1 distributor cap |
Here is another of the "I was there, and this is what we know for sure, how it works". YES, it is NOT the pin location that is alterable, both rotors MUST be in the correct orientation to each other, the magneto, and piston position in the bore. Well, WHY? It is called, in Kawasaki speak, "E Gap". Stands for "energy gap", which is a positive sine wave of charge, located between two points at the top of the charge wave, to charge the ignition box. Off phase, off sine, E Gap incorrect, magneto charge power to ignition is low, to nil for proper piston position to run the engine correctly. That is why John's H1 mag didn't work well on his H2, until he altered both rotor's phase by cutting a new key slot and putting the outer rotor back in its correct pin location on the inner rotor. The H1D rotors work just fine in an H2 magneto, but, the rotors MUST be phased in the mag correctly to the crankshaft to make spark occur in the right place for the piston in the bore. And, YES, "E Gap" is completely different from "I Gap". I Gap has to do with squish distances. And, NO, none of this is in the service manuals, is factory tech school stuff. |
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| Author: | Brian H. [ Tue Dec 26, 2017 12:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Kawasaki h1 distributor cap |
Thanks for the "E Gap" explanation. Very odd that it worked though. Seems like it shouldn't have been able to run at all. |
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