Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Wow, RS bracket! Converting a LS caliper to RS would certainly be a lot easier if you have that. Did Kawasaki sell that bracket separately or did it only come assembled with a caliper?

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Tried firing every stroke and every other stroke, every stroke is better.

3 H2's, all stock
Seats by Tony O'Connor, they're gorgeous
H2B, converted to H2C
75 Paint & Decals by Brian H
75 Euro Seat by Tony O'Connor
Eldorado Motorcycle Seats, Australia

Trying to bite my tongue here, but a LH bracket becomes a RH bracket via a simple washer (about 5/32"), in fact the whole left to right conversion is very easy and inexpensive. (feel better now! )

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

Thank you sir! I will look into that.

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Tried firing every stroke and every other stroke, every stroke is better.

3 H2's, all stock
Seats by Tony O'Connor, they're gorgeous
H2B, converted to H2C
75 Paint & Decals by Brian H
75 Euro Seat by Tony O'Connor
Eldorado Motorcycle Seats, Australia

only prob with the washer on the bracket trick is the brake line ! it connects to the front of the caliper instead of the rear like an original....doesnt matter to me, i have done that to both of my h2s & i will do it on the h1 im building.. they may be heavier but they stop alot better & no one but one of us knows its not factory ! LOL

Step 2 is modifying the calliper, weld 1 hole, and re-tap. I run hose straight to the calliper, so it is slightly more complex, if you want to run a pipe.http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/RODHA ... sort=3&o=3

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

Here's another way. I've heard that stacking the banjos instead of using a splitter can result in the bolt hitting the front fender, but I have not had that happen. I drilled and tapped the calipers M10 x 1.25 for banjos and plugs made from bolts. The whole thing self-bleeds because everything is uphill to the master cylinder.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

well sorta... but not really.... It becomes a "backwards" left-hand bracket.

All of the RH parts are near-perfect mirror images of the left side. Yeah, you can get the LH stuff to work on the right, but it doesn't look the same, and I've had a couple of converted lefts that didn't work the same either.




Rusty, if you want to know how a real dual disc kit compares to a single EX, it stops about the same. The dual-disc kit does really work well for what it is. That said, I prefer the "feel" and weight savings of an EX caliper and more modern master cylinder.

Done carefully, converting a LH to a RH calliper is cost effective and a lot of people already have the parts. The visual differences would only upset the true "rivet-counters" - and they work fine. It is just put forward as an idea to save people a lot of time and a lot of money!

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

I had to mill a L bracket a little to make it work well as a R on mine, Rod. The shim got it close, but the caliper was slightly out of the plane of the disk in the other direction after shimming, and it made the brakes feel mushy for a long time after changing pads, because they had to wear to the plane of disk. It wasn't very difficult, and I'd do it again before spending a lot on a "real" one.

Cody, as far as dual stock disks stopping as well as a single EX setup, you're right, but the lever force with the EX is much lower when used with a 1/2" EX master cylinder. After many years of using my dual stock brake, when I rode JA's H1 I had to use one finger on the lever to avoid locking the wheel going into turns. I much prefer the simplicity and feel of the single EX brake and will use them on any future builds.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/