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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2015 7:42 pm 
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Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
Noblehops wrote:
H2RTuner wrote:
Exactly the result I expected, and knew would occur. Now, if you would do another test of that same sprocket cover, please.

Sneak a Brillo pad/light steel wool, NOT Scotch-Brite nor other severe abrasive pad media, outta the house, without getting caught by the wife, and under fairly hot to the hand water, Brillo pad the top half of the cover, and leave the bottom half as is (can let the un-padded part of the cover get wet, just no Brillo pad). It doesn't take much effort with the Brillo pad to close the still open metal pores.

When the cover is completely dry, please run your grease and oil tests on the Brillo padded areas again. NOTHING will remove all Marks-A-Lot/Sharpie marker ink, save re-blasting.

I have to say one thing about the harsh chemical cleaning liquids such as Brake-Kleen, point cleaner, other chemicals WILL remove paint on frames, and other PAINTED parts quite easily, not for use on, or near our bike's painted areas.

NOT attempting to make anything/process look bad, quite the contrary, to help make it a lot easier to get the grease, oils and grime off blasted natural finish, uncoated aluminum parts.


Hey man, I'm not put out one bit, you're teaching me something and there's always more to learn. Much appreciated. I'll run this test tomorrow.

N.


Tomorrow, that is...

:-)

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2015 8:11 am 
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Hoy hoy,

Quick update for the moment, and I'll post a video later, but I messed up the sound by not turning on my mic, so you're off the hook with having to listen to me drone.

H2R had it nailed, although I could not do the test he wanted exactly because I don't have hot water in my shop (!), but it was very interesting. I used 0000 steel wool and some Meguiar's polishing compound and rubbed out all of the refinished surfaces, and then did an adjacent surface with white scotchbrite, then spooged them both with the blue grease as that seemed to be the most difficult to remove. Then I attempted to clean them up, with a paper towel and denatured alcohol.

Two things happened next - the steel-wool section wiped off nearly completely. Looked great. The Scotchbrited section was no better than the untreated section - although I used white Scotchbrite, super fine.

The REALLY interesting part, to me was the finish. The vapor blasted section that was then hit with the steel wool looked as close to a restored factory luster as any I have seen. The Holy Grail. Having adulterated the process he asked me to use, I am going to re-test and practice some more with it, including doing exactly as he suggested, but also with bronze wool, and with the rubbing compound too.

I'll post up the video later today, and also a couple of pics if I can get to it.

THANK YOU for the direction on this H2RTuner, this has been super interesting for me.

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I do vapor blasting! http://www.restocycle.com
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2015 4:00 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
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Nils, glad that you tried the tests. I am DAVE's small-body HEI's in the automotive world, I literally build a GM processor HEI ignition system into small diameter point distributors of all makes.

One of the features I do is a complete bare body reconstruction, with full appearance resto. I use 60 grit bead blasting after carburetor cleaner vat chemical de-grease and cleaning. I then do a hand Brillo pad over the bead blasted surfaces of the aluminum distributor bodies.

As you are aware, any blast media "kicks up and open" the surface of the part blasted, forming a porosity, literally, a "pore". These pores are also rough inside themselves, making for an excellent holding area for all that oil, grease, and what that stuff holds, dirt and discoloration. This is why I have always been so against untreated, and even clear coated bead and other medial blasted aluminum parts.

As you have just tried, I like to close those pores up as much as possible, making them as slick as possible as well. Less surface disruption, less places to hold the dirt, etc. From the various stuff, the Brillo pads came out the best for close to dead stock un-blasted aluminum in finish and dirt retention. The "smoother" you make the surface, the less dirt problems ensue, the easier to clean it, without chemicals, if possible.

Of course, the finer the blasting media, the better the pores close up with the Brillo pads. ONLY concession is, what finish is desired on the aluminum? The actual media dictates that.

As far as how I figured this out, long before I started to do distributor conversions, I did my own Kawasaki and other aluminum engine resto. This is the SAME process I have done for over 40 years. I have devised a lot of different Brillo pad stuff, for in between fins, areas not easily accessed, all over aluminum castings. I even do this to the ports, carbs, after working on them.

The hing I like the least about a full on resto is to see areas that were media blasted, that now are holding dirt, discoloration, just takes that much away from a nice resto.

If you would like to see some of the dists I have done the glass bead and Brillo work to, please send me a real world email @ info@davessmallbodyheis.com and I will send same for you to view. Most of these distributors arrived here in one giant lump of grease and dirt that most people wouldn't have even picked up by the coil trigger wire. (NOTE: I attempted to post this reply earlier, couldn't do so, site issues. So, I followed a link, and emailed Nils a pictures package of aluminum distributor finishes I do all the time).

I hope I helped with this, if only a little bit.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2015 6:02 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2014 3:45 am
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Location: Cen Tex
H2RTuner wrote:

The thing I like the least about a full on resto is to see areas that were media blasted, that now are holding dirt, discoloration, just takes that much away from a nice resto.


I agree. So, what have you done in the past if you had parts blasted? Specifically, Kaw motors that came "naked" from the factory.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2015 6:49 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
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Read all the posts in this topic between Nils and myself. That is exactly what we are discussing.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 5:39 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:09 am
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Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
Had a pleasant surprise on Friday - the remainder of that H2 engine showed up for processing. Muahaha :-).

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This was about 6 hours in total, net $300 (at 2015 rates), plus about $100 round trip shipping, just for reference.

I will post that video and some follow-up on my test pics a bit later today. One of my brothers is visiting and we are busy tearing into a pile of Honda CT70 stuff I bought while he's here, and just for fun big brother did a little port smoothing on the heads of my Z1 engine too.

Image

More later...

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I do vapor blasting! http://www.restocycle.com
Ikon Shocks: http://www.ikonshocksusa.com


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 8:55 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:09 am
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Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
And now with no further ado, more SOHC goodness!

Got an entire Honda CB 550 engine in a couple of weeks ago, some disassembly required (which is no problem):

Removing the valves from the head.

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Before:

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Cases after cleaning, bolted and plugged up, ready for further processing:

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Yes, these get masked before processing...

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...like so:

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Ewwwww

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Ahhhh

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N.

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I do vapor blasting! http://www.restocycle.com
Ikon Shocks: http://www.ikonshocksusa.com


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 9:40 am 
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Location: North Central NC
Looks really good. For some reason I now think of vapor blasting when I'm brewing beer. :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:08 am 
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Jim wrote:
Looks really good. For some reason I now think of vapor blasting when I'm brewing beer. :lol:


LOL! My work is done here! :-)

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I do vapor blasting! http://www.restocycle.com
Ikon Shocks: http://www.ikonshocksusa.com


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 12:26 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
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Nils, great work, sir.

I do believe there might just be 2 ways to get it done. As I outlined, bead blasting and Brillo, and, vapor blasting. Nothing better than options for situations, that work.


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