Kawi2strokes.com Forum

That's what I was thinking Evans. I did see where Bob was running an ebay auction for crank rebuilding. He raised his labor rate to 150.00. Maybe that's where his first crank on the way rebuild came from.

IMO a crank rebuild is the last place to save money!
I had a somewhat bad experience with a local crank builder that came highly recommended but when I checked runout, it was unacceptable... He ended up fixing it but his excuse in the end is that I was too fussy, the crank doesn't need the tight tolerance that Kawi recommends.
I'll be looking for the next local guy the next time and he needs to be close so I can put the screws to Him if he attempts to pass something on that is sub par.
My best guess is most guys don't check runout and as long as they are polished up... Awe, look at the pretty crank!
Ignorance is bliss, so they say!

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http://kawatriple.com/wtf/

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Bad decisions make the best stories.

I didn't check mine because I didn't have the equipment to do that back in 2011.
However; it did come with the document shown below, and Chris was a person you could trust.
Four seasons and 32000 km later and still running good.


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That's quality for sure!
Fwiw, a quick and dirty jig can be made if vee blocks aren't available.
Just invert the top half case and use a length of solder between the bearing and journal you want to check. Use elastic bands on the studs to keep the con rods from clanking.
Of course you'll still need to have a dial indicator for measuring.

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http://kawatriple.com/wtf/

I like that spec sheet idea! Chris was certainly an expert builder from what I have heard.

Another suggestion is after checking with #2 and #5, go ahead and check with #1 and #6, then with #1 and #5 then lastly #2 and #6. I have found when #2 and #5 pass, the others sometimes fail due to a cancellation effect. With this method, I have been getting an average of .0004"-.0005". Oops, I am giving away trade secrets!

ALWAYS ALWAYS check the runout before assembly as shipping mishaps can occur.

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Crankshaft Testimonials viewtopic.php?f=25&t=7593

"Let's keep your crankshaft great!"

Do you check the alternator and drive ends by chucking them in a lathe and putting an indicator on the far end? Just curious... I trued my DT100 crank that way, but of course there are only two places to support that one.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I have not used that method Jim. The weight of the crank and any pressure when chucking against the centers can skew the results. It works with smaller cranks though.

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Crankshaft Testimonials viewtopic.php?f=25&t=7593

"Let's keep your crankshaft great!"

I meant to chuck one end and let the far end just hang out in space. That should be a pretty extreme test of straightness. I guess you'd have to true the chuck with a straight bar first though. Not something you'd actually need to do, I guess.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Oh ok I see. I think for sure the weight of the crank would cause it to "sag" a bit. I advise customers if the crank is going to sit for a while before assembly to store it in the case to avoid this situation. Even sitting static on a bench for an extended time is not good.

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Crankshaft Testimonials viewtopic.php?f=25&t=7593

"Let's keep your crankshaft great!"