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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 12:10 am 

Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2011 1:49 am
Posts: 348
Location: Pacifica, CA
67lotus49 wrote:
I've gotten really board with bikes lately and decided to get an old truck. My first ride in a Chevy Napco 4x4 was way back in 1980. My girl friend at the
time's dad had a 57. I use to ride with him on Saturday mornings at the Mount Snow ski area in Vermont and he was the maintenance guy. So I was
22 then and now I'm 60. For 38 years I've wanted one of these old trucks and a few months ago started searching. Found one on craigslist in Seattle
and decided to buy it. Truck arrived yesterday and now is in my garage. Will do a full frame off restoration so that will keep me busy for a while. Early Christmas
present to myself.


Hey Ron,

I bore and hone chevy engines also... Valve jobs too, just in case.

Don

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 10:17 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3147
Don, just a question, when you bore a car engine, do you use torque plates? When I do one, I use the plates, and have lately contemplated altering the plates to allow the intake manifold to be bolted in place for the bore and hone process.

Any thoughts on my crazy idea?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 1:04 pm 

Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2011 1:49 am
Posts: 348
Location: Pacifica, CA
H2RTuner wrote:
Don, just a question, when you bore a car engine, do you use torque plates? When I do one, I use the plates, and have lately contemplated altering the plates to allow the intake manifold to be bolted in place for the bore and hone process.

Any thoughts on my crazy idea?


Hey Dave,
I do use torque plates, if the customer wants foot the bill. Many don't know the benefits or costs evolved. We also experimented with running hot water through the block and found it does help but the gains for the effort, gave little gain compared to just the torque plates on the dyno. I know people who bolt on the bell housing, motor mounts, freeze plugs and anything else they can. WE built our own for the 600cc rotax motors. the guy I did this for was having severe blow by issues. Another machinist built his first plate and it was 4" thick and flat bent things out of shape. I recommended he find a scrap main case and cut a hole through the bottom so I could get a bore gauge into the bore. We then torqued everything with his head in place and measured the bore, I couldn't believe how bad the bore was out of round. Several thou in the best spots. Also found out he was over torquing The 2 fasteners that are studs in the head that pass down thru cyl and have nuts that are buried in the fins front and back necessitating using a lateral extension to reach the nuts. Only problem was he failed to reduce the torque wench setting to avoid over torquing them. Ended up cutting the 4" plate down to about 1 1/4". When we were done the cyl was less than .0002 out any where in the bore when torqued to the cases with the head. Blow by gone, less than 2% leak down.

My point is, I'd hone one with the t/p then mock it up with the heads then torque down the manifold and see what kind of difference you get.

Dave PM me your phone number if you would or give me away to send you mine. Would like to discuss the weather and some other things that are on my mind regarding Yerington. Thanks.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 1:32 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3147
Thank you for the info, sir. I have also gone the hot water route, and found the same results. Piston metallurgy make up has a giant effect on bore/honing. Austinitic, auto-thermic are quite different than those pistons that are different composition. I also torque all the main caps in place, with a set of bearings as well.


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