Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Enthusiasts from around the world dedicated to the preservation and ritual flogging of the infamous Kawasaki 2-stroke Triples
It is currently Sat May 03, 2025 4:16 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 22 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 4:48 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:44 am
Posts: 1159
Location: Bangor, PA
Thanks guys. I would bet that if most looked, the feed to your panel from the meter base would be aluminum. Although, it may not be superior to copper, I honestly can't afford to run copper the 150' to the garage. :(


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 10:38 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:03 pm
Posts: 2605
Location: Birthplace of Minnesota
I believe the fire issues were partly due to incorrectly sizing the aluminum and copper the same.

Aluminum is not as conductive as copper, so generally speaking if a circuit was to call for a 4 gauge COPPER wire, you would want to use a 2 gauge Aluminum in its place to assure adequate conductivity


Last edited by scrambler73 on Mon Jun 18, 2012 10:44 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 10:42 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9999
Location: North Central NC
Cody, the NEC is clear about what size the conductor should be, based on material, and in general, the inspectors enforced that. Generally, the fires were started by heat at the terminations. If you undersize any wire by 2 gauge numbers, copper or aluminum, it won't get hot enough to start a fire.

_________________
If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 10:50 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:03 pm
Posts: 2605
Location: Birthplace of Minnesota
Jim wrote:
Cody, the NEC is clear about what size the conductor should be, based on material. The fires were started by heat at the terminations.


Not that I have ever personally witnessed an aluminum wire fire, I was told/taught (In State of MN certified contractor continuing ed) that excess heat (from undersized wires) also played a roll?

Connections were mentioned as well, but the wire size thing stuck in my mind as much as connections/corrosion.

*disclaimer.. I am a carpenter, and only play an electrician on tv*


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 10:56 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:03 pm
Posts: 2605
Location: Birthplace of Minnesota
Jim wrote:
If you undersize any wire by 2 gauge numbers, copper or aluminum, it won't get hot enough to start a fire.


doesn't the load placed on the circuit play a roll? Meaning, if a circuit at its limit and has (even slightly) undersized wire, isn't the "potential" there for overheating of that wire to the point of being a fire hazzard?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 11:47 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 12:58 am
Posts: 88
oxford wrote:
In the panel at the house the grounds and neutrals are all connected to the same busses. 2 hot legs and one bare wire run down from the meter base, bare wire goes to the ground/neutral buss. I then have a separate ground wire that runs from the ground/netural buss to my water main that comes into the house. From what I see the grounds and neutrals are not separated from, each other.


That is correct, at that point they are connected together...

oxford wrote:
Now to the sub panel. Are you saying that the grounds and neutrals do indeed need to be on separate busses in that panel and then running back to the main panel?


Yes, in the situation you describe, they are supposed to be separate...

oxford wrote:
What is the difference when they get to the main panel and essentially go to the same thing or do each of those wires not get hooked up to the ground/neutral buss that is in there?

Remember that inside a house "Ground" and "Neutral" aren't the always same thing... A "Ground" wire should never be carring current but a "Neutral" can.

oxford wrote:
Also does the water line I have running out to the garage make any sort of difference or not? Thanks.

Yes it does.... If there were no metallic connection between the two buildings the NEC would allow you to run only three conductors (two hot and a neutral) between the two buildings and a "ground" wire run to a copper ground rod driven into the ground.... (It would be wired just like the main panel)

I think the reason why the NEC won't allow you to ground to the water line in both places is so there is no way to accidently get current flowing through the water line


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 4:40 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:44 am
Posts: 1159
Location: Bangor, PA
Thanks Bobby-S, 2 separate wires it is.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 8:04 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:44 am
Posts: 1159
Location: Bangor, PA
If I could get a deal on copper, is 3 individual pieces of 2 ga. THHN and 1 4 ga. in pvc underground ok to use for the feeders?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:27 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:10 pm
Posts: 1503
Location: Heber Springs, Arkansas
oxford wrote:
If I could get a deal on copper, is 3 individual pieces of 2 ga. THHN and 1 4 ga. in pvc underground ok to use for the feeders?


It has be at least 75deg C wire not 60deg C. Number 6 will work for the ground.

_________________
1973 RD350, 1979 RD400F, 1984 RZ350, 2014 Suzuki Vstrom 1000
CHRIS AND JEFF ARE THE MEN


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:23 am 
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9999
Location: North Central NC
scrambler73 wrote:
doesn't the load placed on the circuit play a roll? Meaning, if a circuit at its limit and has (even slightly) undersized wire, isn't the "potential" there for overheating of that wire to the point of being a fire hazzard?

The breaker is the current limiter. The NEC specifies wire sizes with plenty of safety factor for that limit. For a 20A circuit, you have to use #12 wire to meet code, but if you run a 20A load on a #14 extension cord, you'll find it might get slightly warm to the touch.

But if there's a fire from aluminum wiring, everything causing heat, even a little, contributed. If some guy installed aluminum wire and didn't use the right connectors and anti-corrosion grease, and used the copper sizing table instead of the one for aluminum, and the inspector was so bad he didn't notice any of this, then there are a lot of contributing causes of the fire. :lol:

_________________
If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 22 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group