Kawi2strokes.com Forum

The transformation is amazing, you don't dare pull the lever to the grip. It stops! It stops! The new telephone books are here!! (Movie quote)

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Using a poorly conceived idea along with bad mechanical practice is not an upgrade but rather a recipe for disaster.

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We don't need no stinkin' Cams!

true, well set up drums can work well. my morini drum is fairly amazing considering what it is.

I've rode a couple bikes with regular shoes on the front and they all seemed to stop well when the shoes are matched. the RT1B has a strong front brake. If you use an old pair of shoes, glue heavy grit sandpaper to them (around 120g) and drive it around slow (5-10MPH) for 5m or so, you can resurface the drum as well while youre at it. Takes about 5m. Shoes that lost the linings or a totally worn set are great for this. If the linings are loose, you will need to reglue them temporarily.

Great tips abound on this board just like this. We need a 'shade tree mechanic' thread with tips for the do it yourselfer. People would probably be amazed at the stuff others do to fix things they have issues with.

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74 H2B with reeds and 34mm carbs
75 S3A Ram Air with reeds and 30mm carbs
73 S2A (wife's bike)
71 Yammi RT1B
83 HD Sportster
03 Yammi R1
06 Kaw 750 Vulcan (wife’s bike)
12 Yammi vstar 250 (wife’s bike)

Wow, this thread is two years old!

While viewing Race Tech fork springs, I came across this info on their drum brake arcing service they apparently offer http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Brake%20Arcing, for those of you riding around on 69-71 H1's, A-series Avengers or Samurai's, etc. Other than the older gentleman at http://vintagebrake.com/, I wasn't aware anyone else here in CA offered this service. Another member who had Vintage Brake do his front and rear brakes on his 69 H1 quoted around $400 EACH, but Race Tech's charge is listed at $200 each, so when I ever get around to my 69 H1 waiting in the wings, I will be contacting RT.

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"Only cheat the cheaters, boy - you can't cheat an honest man!" Mordecai Jones - The Flim Flam Man.

Darren we get stuff arced all the time over at capitol clutch and brake as old electric lifts and most equipment need to be arced. http://www.capitol-clutch.com/ it is who did my rear brake shoes and hub for my h2.

That's Duane, that's good to know.

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"Only cheat the cheaters, boy - you can't cheat an honest man!" Mordecai Jones - The Flim Flam Man.

You should also check the adjustment on the linkage at the backing plate. Disconnect the rod between the two pivot arms. Pull the brake lever in until the one shoe contacts the drum and tie the lever off in this position with a zip tie. Now pull the arm on the other shoe back to contact the drum and adjust the rod so that the clevis pins can be installed with little or no resistance. Now you're sure that both shoes are putting equal pressure on the drum.