Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I know jim knight has, we spoke at barbers (BTW was great to see you Jim).

Was toying w/the idea of doing a 4-cyl S2 with reeds. i have afew spare motors, the crank wont be too hard (can do it myself) and figure i'll phase it 90 degrees per cyl. Run 2 pickups and run two 2 lead coils and 2 pickups @ 180 degrees utilising wasted spark. Case cutting and welding i got covered.

anyway, my bigger concern is the output shaft. An offset sprocket will be good but i'm concerned about the load on the tranny. Is an outrigger bearing the way to go or? hate to get a longer output shaft made, that would be pricey as hell i would imagine. experience appreciated.

thanks.

The way Simon Whitelock did a KH250 four cylinder back in the 80's was to leave the output bearing area of the 'left hand' set of cases still in pace and run the output sprocket inboard of these with an extension on the output shaft supported outboard of the sprocket in this other bearing. One thing left awkward by this was there being no real access to the clutch adjuster on the lifter worm.

I would love to see this project come to light Mark!!! Sure, you can just have an H1, but the marvel of multi-cylinder Triples - ANY size - never ceases to astonish me (and likely EVERYONE else)!

_________________
"Only cheat the cheaters, boy - you can't cheat an honest man!" Mordecai Jones - The Flim Flam Man.

Rog Ramms 666

http://kawasakikhregister.myfastforum.o ... 4322-0.php

and on this forum
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=1075

M in sc ? (sorry, dont know a name). If you go to malcs link you will see a pic of the engine on the bench. Out board of the sprocket is a block of alluminium alloy that houses a sealed ball race. It is held with two high tensile cap head screws (8 x1.25) that screw into the thick crank chamber devider. They are drilled at an angle of about 45 degees to the bearing support and the support is counter bored to accept the screw heads. I got an old output shaft and cut about 6 inches of and machined the steel block it is pressed into. The shaft is then welded in place. The original sprocket can still be seen. This is drilled in 5 places that match 5 drillings in the steel block. Five 6mm cap heads are used to bolt the whole plot together. You need to move the engine over half the width of the bore, that will also be the distance to move your new sprocket out. You will need to use a solid carbide centre drill and 6mm drill to cut the five holes in the sprocket, they are darn hard bits of metal. I will take some pics of this are to show how the support is nicely hidden behind the stock cover. That is if i can suss out how to post pics (I am rubbish at technology/ button pressing). Your idea on the ignition sounds good, that is pretty much what Chris Ritchie built for me and it works great. Mine has very mild porting and is now giving 117 hp at the back tyre ( it was also running weak and the dyno operator said it had a good few more ponies in store) and has so much low down grunt with bags of top end. I run 16 tooth g box sprocket and had to machine up a much smaller (I cant remember at this moment how many teeth) rear wheel sprocket to stop it flipping over. It is very managable and very quick. Give me a shout if i can be of any help, i'll do what I can to save you some of the grief that I had. Oh, by the way, the guy that posts as Malc87 ! DO NOT LET HIM HAVE A GO OF IT He blew it up in the Isle of Man. Good luck. RR

good good info! still deciding if i'll do it. I was thinking a jack shaft to the swingarm. (have amodern Zx7 unit and this would take care of the offset for the huge rear wheel). ie: leave sprocket in 'stock' location, bring it back into the swingarm inboard, weld 2 carrier bearings and a shaft there. dunno. still designing in my mind...

looking into other things.. i think i can get away with offset sprocket and moving the sprocket inwards on the wheel. Decided against the zx7 suspension. going with stock type stuff. looks as though the sprocket location will move over 1 15/16. i can get a 1.10" offset sprocket so.... might not be too bad.

. man i got some work to do....

I made a steel tube with a flange both ends. The tube slides up against where the sprocket would normally be and then lock it in place using the stock transmission nut, a good shakeproof washer and a dab of Loctite. I then push a machined sprocket onto a spigot that has three holes and this assembly then bolts to the end of the original tube. The 25mm diameter spigot you see sticking out locates in a bearing held by a billet holder that bolts to the engine.

I have seen quite a few outboard bearing supports that have quite a bit of run out which won't do any good to anything. I have managed to get the spigot on mine to run within 0.004" so I'm really happy with that. The only down side of doing it my way is that you have to machine up a new sprocket if you ever need one, eg: bore out the splined hole to 25mm and put three mounting holes in.

did you reverse-spline the inside of the adapter? edit. i see what ya did. you basically made a huge offset sprocket. cool. I wont need to go that far out.... any more pics of your work? process on the motor cutting, etc?