Kawi2strokes.com Forum

As was mentioned in my post about "Intake Skirt Cutting" on my H2, I am also contimplating doing the same to the H1.

This top end was ported by Denco to the 75 HP roadrace specs. Really a VERY mild port job with only 2mm being required cut from intake skirt. Like the H2, I left this H1's skirts alone as I was worried about streetability.

Although the bike is no "grunt-monster" as far as low-end goes, it is decent, with no need for clutch slippage off the line. And top end, it is just about identical in acceleration to a chambered early H2, so it "goes" ok.

That said, its not as quick/rideable as I think it could/SHOULD be, so this winter I am going to pull the top end and cut the skirts 2mm as Denco spec'd.

I know Im going to lose some bottom end doing this. Do you guys think it will be enough where I might have to remove the VM34's and maybe install some VM30's (from a stock H2)???

Or would a set of UFO's possibly compensate for the piston skirt cutting???

And if I do switch from the VM34's to a set of 30's, how much top-end pull will be "Lost"????


That is my FIRST issue.

2nd is the clutch..

So, I used a full set of Heavy Barnett springs in this bike and HOLY CRAP what a pain...even with a ball-bearing pusher and extremely well lubed cable, its just BRUTAL on my left wrist in city traffic.

I have never had an inner basket machined for the extra plate. Henry has offered his services on more than one occasion to help me get this done and I think its time I take him up on it.

Question is!

After the additional plate mod, can I just run 5 stock Kawi springs and expect it to hold (75HP roadrace port)?? Or will a mix-match of heavy/softer springs still be necessary?

Thanks again gentleman!

reed it and yes. get the extra plate.

I was wondering how long it would be before someone said "reed it" (thought for sure Aylor would be up by now? )

For Historical Preservation Purposes , I will not, and cannot, (as much as I'd LOVE TO), reed an actual Denco Top end.

must make due with what Iz gots

let me channel moo...

'its just old bike parts, whats the big deal!'

does it have the bolt on adapters? put em there. use some yz85 cages. (flow more than banshee cages) no cutting required. my .02

I believe on those old G.E.M. reed cages, they sat soooo far away from the piston, they really didn't work all that well since the H1 has such poor intake "signal". I think the YZ (or any "bolt-on") would react the same?

Johns reeds work so well because he got them as close to the piston as possible.

Maybe on a super hogged out, radically ported H1, a big reed box would work, but on this (pretty much stock) ported H1, the bolt-on just isn't worth it.

In regards to the clutch:
My H2 with bakset mod; 3 Barnett springs, Sytec and Project H2 clutch cable has very reasonable clutch pull.
Had the same results with my H1D (which would slip with the standard clutch pack even with NOS springs).
Never used and actuator other than stock plastic or Sytec though.

There have been different posts on different boards that question the use of big carbs with stock displacement for road use. I wonder just how much difference exists between these carbs for any thing other than WOT applications.

IME, run a carb with enough CFM to adequately fill the cylinder quickly with high port velocity.
Anything bigger usually kills throttle repsonse and low end torque presumably due to lower velocity.

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There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

try it. also those gem is flow was crap and the reed was too stiff. Im picking up yet another S2... im gonna try it.

How cool would it be if a bolt on deal like the GEM set up actually worked

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There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

I agree!

Someone with the intellect, drive, creativity, and expertise to do it............

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Use the 30mm carbs. The only reason for 34s is to brag that you have 34s.

I use h2 carbs with 110 mains on my roadracer and it pulls cleanly for idle to 10,500 with more low end than a stock h1. With 34s it boggs below 6,000 and needs to be above 8,000 but can not feel any difference on top end ( there probably is a little ).

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76 KH500, 20 Ninja 400, 03 Suzuki Burgman 650, H1 roadrace, A1 roadrace, 91 KX250, 81 Ke175, etc